WATER ALL AROUND US

After our tedious trip across country, it was so good to finally cross into North Carolina.  Each small town we passed through, reminded me of the many trips I made with my family down the Natchez Trace and through the small towns of Mississippi.  All along the way were fields of cotton with remnants of the harvest sticking to the dried plants.  Songs of the South played in my head.  I am glad to be back.

As we came into New Bern heading to the campground we would call home for a few days, we crossed over the clover-leaf of bridges that span the Neuse River and the Inter-coastal waterway.  The sun had finally broken through the clouds and its light sparkled on the water.  We rolled down the windows and drew in the smell of the water and enjoyed the feel of the wind blowing in our faces.  Even the dogs seemed to sense that we were at the beginning of a new adventure.

New Bern has a wonderful Farmers Market that is opened on Tuesdays and Saturdays.  It was fund to wander from stall to stall looking at the arts and crafts along with jams and jellies and baked goods and wonderful veggies.  It is amazing at the talent of some folks.  One vendor finds old historic buildings that are falling down and are being demolished.  He takes the fixtures, boards and other elements and turns them into the most charming bird houses.  Each one is unique and special.  I wanted to get one for our new home, but well, not knowing when we would have a new home, I resisted the urge.  There were many others, everything from handmade furniture to hand turned wooden bowls.  I gathered as many cards as I could so I could come back later and perhaps get something.

After the market, we wandered down to Union Park.  It is located on the waterfront.  It is a wonderful gathering place for folks.  We walked the girls around so they could enjoy some exercise after being cooped up in the truck.  At the point overlooking the water, there was a older couple sitting on a bench taking in the morning sun.  I caught myself imagining Jim and I sitting here in a few years watching the sun and the water.  Will we be as content?  There were ducks swimming in the water and Charlotte in particular was interested in getting close to them.  It was a nice way to spend an hour or so.

After a nice weekend. we dove into the business at hand, finding a house.  I can tell you, it is not an easy task.  We thought we would find and buy a resale home but, I guess it was just not meant to be.  Every house we looked at was missing something or perhaps I just kept comparing it to our home in Trilogy.  At one point, we did find the perfect home.  It had all the rooms we wanted, a nice wooded lot and best of all, it was on the Neuse River complete with a dock and boat lift.  The sunset from the front porch was stunning!  Alas, this beautiful house is located way out from New Bern in a very remote area.  One of the things we want in a new home is social activities and access to medical facilities too.  No matter what a good deal the price, we would get neither of our needs with this beauty.

We we went back to the community that appealed to us years ago, Carolina Colours.  We spent a couple of days seeing the “two” resales available and looking at lots.  

In the end, we selected a lot that is heavily wooded and backs Brices Creek.  At just under 3/4 acre, we are sure to have lots of privacy and the girls will have plenty of room to roam.  Now all we have to do is build a house.  What am I saying, build a house?  We have no idea how to do such a thing.  Oh well, that is why it is called an adventure, doing something new and different.  I have heard it said that building a house challenges a marriage; I guess we will find out.

ONE JOURNEY ENDS BUT ANOTHER BEGINS

As the days of our Alaskan trip wound to an end, I was surprised at how quickly the time had passed.  It is strange that we look forward to a trip for such a long time and somehow the duration seems so long, how can it end quickly?  But then, as the end arrives, the time is never long enough.  So it was for our trip to Alaska.  

The final days as we traveled through Nevada and back into Arizona, I saw the landscape in a different light.  Perhaps it was the idea that we might never see this land again, perhaps it was a closure of one chapter of our life and the beginning of another.  Whatever it was, it was saddened by the finality of the trip.

But life moves on.  After completing all the needed doctor, dentist and vet visits, we broke camp and headed for the Southeast.  Our route would take us north through Arizona, across New Mexico, Oklahoma, Texas, Arkansas, Tennessee, Mississippi, Alabama, Georgia, South Carolina and end in North Carolina, whew!  It is odd, after living in Arizona for nearly eight years, we have become accustomed to seeing rain seldom.  As soon as we crossed out of Arizona, we found ourselves driving in rain.  That pattern continued all the way into Mississippi.  As luck would have it, we were caught up in a front that was slow moving and carried a great deal of rain. Mmmm, hope this is not a sign of things to come especially since there was flooding all around us.

As is our custom, we traveled three days and rested a day.  While we were looking forward to arriving in New Bern, we wanted to take our time and enjoy the trip as well.  After stops to see family in West Point, MS and Atlanta, GA, we finally arrived.  New Bern has grown a good bit since our last visit here but the old Southern charm remains.  Since the city is the second oldest in the state and the original capitol too, it is full of history and tradition.  As soon as we crossed the bridge over the Inter-Coastal, we both let out a sigh.  At last, we are Home.

Not don’t misunderstand, home has been many places for us over the years.  But Home, well Home is were your roots spread out and ground you.  Home is where family and memories formed us into the adults we have become.  Oh heck, Home is and always will be the South.  For us, Home is not Home without water of some sort.  Here in New Bern, there is lots of water both fresh and salt.  You can feel, smell and taste it in the air.  The wind across the water sings a song of times gone by and times to come.

So, here we are back in the land of cotton, grits and ya’ll.  It won’t be too long before we get settled and when we do, ya’ll come!

Crater Lake National Park, truly a wonder

The day dawned with the promise of a special adventure, Crater Lake National Park.  Crater Lake Park protect the deepest lake in the US.  The lake is fed by rain and snow only, no river, streams or glaciers contribute to the water.  This lake is considered the cleanest large body of water in the world.  The water is clear and intense in blue color.

The lake rests inside the caldera formed about 7,700 years ago when 12,000 foot tall volcano collapsed after a major eruption.  It is thought that this eruptions may have been the largest in North America in 640,000 years.  Subsequent eruptions formed an island called Wizard Island, a cinder cone near the southwest shore.

The drive to and around the lake is blanketed with old-growth forests and open meadows.  There is a large variety of plants and animals in the park.  Not unlike many parks, it has significance to the local American Indian tribes as well as scientists who study the area.  And of course, it is important to the public like us.

There is no way I can describe the day so I will just share our pictures.

Along the way into the park, we passed many places where we could view clear streams that rushed over rocks and cliffs creating wonderful falls.

As we came to the end of the road that ended at the lake, the view across the landscape was just a taste of what was to come.  There is a road that circles the rim of the lake.  Most visitors only drive the road and miss all the opportunities to hike into the wilderness.

Our first glimpse of the lake took my breathe away.  Sitting on the wall looking down, it did not seem real that any body of water could be so clear and deep blue.  The lake is 1943 feet deep and sits at 6173 foot elevation.

This is Wizard Island, a cinder cone.  A short boat ride can be taken to visit the island.  Visitors can also fish from the island.  The lake is stocked with Rainbow Trout and Kokanee Salmon but there are no other fish in the lake.

There were many of these Chipmunks at one of the overlook stops.  This little fellow was begging for handouts and came very close and seemed to have no fear.

These trees are found at Cloudcap Overlook.  These Whitebark pines cling for survival here, buffeted by harsh winds they are dwarfed and contorted.

This formation is called Phantom Ship.  It is the second and smallest island in the lake.  It resembles a small sailboat but is actually an erosion-resistant lava formation.  At 400,000 years old, it is the oldest exposed rock within the caldera.

These formations are found at what is called the Pinnacles Overlook.  Colorful spires, some 100 feet tall, are eroding from the canyon wall,  They are actually “fossil fumaroles” where volcanic gases rise up through a layer of volcanic ash, cementing the ash into solid rock.  Mother Nature is truly amazing.

We spent a wonderful day at the lake.  It was an adventure well worth taking.

Prospect, OR

We left Lincoln behind and headed east across Oregon bound for Prospect and Crater Lake National Park.  Driving through the state is a wonderful experience especially since we traveled along the smaller, state back roads.  We went through forests and valleys and loved every minute of the trip.  

As we got closer to Prospect, remains of Mt. Mazama can be seen in the distance.  This volcano eruption and collapse left behind one of the wonders of our country, Crater Lake.  But I get ahead of myself.  We arrived at our campground late in the afternoon.  It is a nice park nestled in a heavily forested area.

There are hiking trails leading out from the park that begged to be hiked.  We took the girls and headed out to explore.  Savannah loves the woods and has a great nose.  She would make a great hunting dog if she were not so timid.  In any case, she is great at tracking rabbits and all sorts of animals.

As we walked along the trail, Savannah lurched from the path into the brush and stopped, growled lowly and pointed.  At first, we did not see anything to attract her attention.  Upon closer look, I saw brown fur and at first thought it was a dog or worse, a coyote.  Then I realized, it was a young fawn standing under a tree in the brush.

The fawn stood still as death moving not even a muscle.  I pulled Savannah back and we slowly moved forward snapping pictures as we walked.  The small fawn never moved an inch or showed any reaction to the snapping of the camera or the dogs pulling to get closer for a look.  What a lovely creature and how amazing that Savannah saw it and drew our attention to its presence.

The following morning, we decided to head for the “Top of the World” aka Flounce Rock.  The view from this place gives a 360 degree view of the area including Mt. Shasta, Crater Lake, Rogue River and much more.  Instruction told us to follow the highway until we saw Ulrich Road, a paved county road.  After about two miles, we would take a left fork where the road would become gravel and would narrow a bit.  After 4 miles on this road where it seems to end, take a much rougher and narrower path to the right that leads up to cell towers.  From there, there is a walking path that would lead to a rock outcropping where we would be rewarded with the view.  We headed out without hesitation anxious for the adventure.  None of the descriptions were exaggerating, if anything, they were understated.  The roads were rough and in the end required us to use four-wheel drive.  The reward was worth all the effort.

We walked around the cell tower looking for the path.  To our surprise, we stumbled upon a Pet Cemetery.  The handmade head markers ranged from simple to artistic to well, whatever the owners felt like doing to honor their beloved pets.  This marked was simple wood but expressed their love for the dog exactly.

This branch that had grown in the shape of a heart had the dog’s collar entwined at the base.  The dog’s tags were still on the collar but we did not disturb it to find a name.

The artist-owner used nails to spell out the pet’s name, Sprout.  Simple, but loving.

After exploring the cemetery, we finally located the path.  With Jim’s help, I was able to make my way over the steep, rocky terrain to reach the view.  Far below, we could see a vista of sites.  This Lost Creek Lake looked small from above.  The haze covered everything making pictures hazy, but still the view was special.

Here above the beauty of this land, was a memorial to a fallen Marine Frederick Dunham Graten.  He was 21 years old and died at Dong Ha, Vietnam.  At the foot of his memorial lay his Mother and Grandmother.  What a wonderful place to honor your love ones.

As we returned, we passed Rogue Gorge Viewpoint.  It was a beautiful spot.  From the bridge, the view was beautiful.  This view shows a platform at the bottom of stairs that led up to a wonderful house nestled in the trees.  Man, what a great place to live!

Tomorrow we are going to Crater Lake.  I can hardly wait.

Lincoln City, Oregon

We arrived in Lincoln City anxious to set up camp beside the ocean.  Alas, when we finally arrived at our destination, no ocean!  Instead, the campground was located beside the river that wound through a valley and eventually emptied into the ocean.  Not surprising, all the camps focused on fishing.  In just a few days, the Salmon season would open here and folks were arriving every day anxious to get to it.  Well, while this was not what we anticipated, no matter there were many interesting things to see in this unique town.

We made our way to the Visitors Center to get some information about what to see and do.  As has often been the case, we met several very unique characters.  All the workers in the center were Senior Citizen Volunteers.  One lady sought us out in the entry and invited us to come inside to her station and she would give us plenty to do and see.  She was a character for sure and a wealth of information to boot!  She told us about how Lincoln City came into being.  According to her version of the tale, it had been five smaller villages strung along the coast.  In order to get funds from the federal government to help install an updated water sewerage system, they had to come together and incorporate as one town.  The local school children named this new town, Lincoln City.

Shortly thereafter, they learned of the availability of a 14-foot high fitting piece of sculpture named “Lincoln on the Prairie” by Anna Hyatt Huntington, considered one of the country’s foremost equestrian sculptors.  The piece was given to the City with a few “strings attached”.  The piece depicts Lincoln riding seeding to improve his education even as he road; an inspiration not only to seek knowledge but also the spirit of Lincoln.  It could not be placed in a “touristy” place and if the city changed its name, the statue would be removed.  The statue itself was free.  All Lincoln City had to do was pay for the transportation of the statue from Long Island, NY to Lincoln City.  Turned out this was quite an undertaking an ended up costing $60,000, much more the the needed funds the city wanted from the government.  The final location of the statue is on a quiet street a bit off the beaten path.  Huntington would be pleased.

In addition to the story of the town’s name and the statue, the lady gave us quite a bit of information about places where we could “walk about”.  Lincoln City has a number of walking areas dubbed “Open Spaces”.  Each of the areas has a focus on the land and wildlife and birds.  Even though the weather was gray and overcast, we took advantage and walked the paths of two different ones.  The first was a heavily wooded area near the beach that was laid out very similar to a maze.  We had the girls with us and thought it would be a nice outing for us all so off we went into the gloom.  The pathway was overhung with old growth trees, some living and some not.  All were draped with green moss and and other plants.  Savannah took the lead and Charlotte followed along at a slower pace.  While Charlotte is alpha, she is not brave in the woods while Savannah loves it.

It took about 20 minutes to get to the en of the trail and we turned and headed back.  The return trail was not the same we took out but it seemed simple enough.  Finally, we reached an exit point only to find we were no where near where the truck was parked.  We re-entered and retraced our steps and took another route.  At the next exit, we still were not where the truck was parked.  After four tries, we finally exited at the truck.  I have to say, I was relieved.  I had started to think we would wander about until the mosquitoes finished us for dinner.

Toward the end of the afternoon, the sun broke through the clouds and we sought out one of the beaches.  A mist hung in the air over the sand and water giving a ghostly look to things.

Rocky cliffs rose from the water reminding me of an old movie about Dracula and his castle high above the water.  The waves crashed on the rock and rush to the sand where Sand Pipers rushed about looking for tiny tidbits of food.

The waves were magnificent.  They rolled and crashed over and over.  I love the sound of the waves and salt smell overall.

On the cliffs above the beach, clusters of home clung to the edge.  The views from these houses must have be breathtaking.  While the houses were not much to look at, I am sure they cost a pretty penny!  But worth every cent!  We walked letting the girls run and frolic at will.  Charlotte loves to chase the birds.  We laughed as she tried and tried to catch one.  We left relaxed and so glad we got to experience this place.

Destination: Oregon

One would think that we had become accustomed to having it rain long and often.  Not!  It was disappointing to leave Ilwaco heading to Oregon with grey skies and intermittent rain but we were not going to let the weather dampen our spirits.

At times, the landscape looked colorless as if we were looking at a black and white picture.  But soon enough, it gave way to color and restful scenery.  Here is a sample of what we saw along the way to Lincoln City, Oregon.

Grey sunless skies made the scenery look black and white.  This bridge was very long and narrow as well.  Charlotte is a pretty calm dog when we travel.  But the overhead arches of the bridge made her sit up and look at us questioningly while intermittently looking up to be sure the sky was not falling.

As we traveled along the coast, many rock formations such as this rose from the water.  They look like centennials watching over the waves.

The roads we took we sometimes beyond the road less traveled.  We were on county roads that went out into farmland.  This tiny road rolled along deep in a canyon.  It was odd to see a biker peddling his way on such a difficult road.

And then there were small fishing villages along the way.  You could actually smell the fish in the air -- no kidding.

When we finally arrived at our destination, we were both disappointed.  We were no where near the beach but rather on the banks of the river.  Along the way, fisherman crowded the waterway.  Surprise!  The Salmon were running!

Ilwaco, Washington our first glimpse of the coastline

After a wonderful visit with family, we were anxious to get out of the city and head for the coastline.  Our destination, Ilwaco, Washington.  We have long wanted to visit the coast of Washington and Oregon so this is another one of our bucket list things accomplished.  We left Seattle around 10 a.m. in hopes of missing the rush hour traffic.  While it was not gridlock, it was none the less heavy.  We followed the highway for a distance and then turned onto one of the state roads.  What a relief to be back on one of the roads less traveled.

This area has deep history.  The Lewis and Clark Trail is located in this area (a part of it that is) and of course all the history that comes with the coastline from pirates to events from wars.  For us, we were just anxious to be near the water, to smell the salt in the air.

Ilwaco is a small town dominated by all things fishing.  This weekend however, they were involved in an annual car show.  The roads were filled with all kinds of antique cars, trucks and motorcycles.  The next town over was the main focus thankfully, but still there was quite a bit of activity where we were.  One evening we drove over for dinner and wow, what a sight.  Folks lined the roads with their chairs, umbrellas and food and drink.  No, no parade was in progress.  They were just there to watch all the folks drive up and down the main drag.  The crowds were large but not rowdy.  Certainly, it was not what we wanted to get tangled up with.

We took advantage to enjoy part of the Lewis and Clark Trail.  We did a bit of hiking and learned about some of the history of this quaint place.  Take a look.

Once we left the interstate, we were quickly swallowed up by dense forest.  The trees towered over us and provided a canopy of shade.  The tension of driving in heavy traffic quickly began to fade away.

We passed a number of villages and towns that had this type of metal lawn decorations.  This grouping was located at a major intersection.  There were a host of characters including birds and fish and all kinds of things.  Whoever makes them is quite talented.  We even saw them in the countryside.  There were cows and horses and all sorts of things depicted in metal.  Never know what you will see.

Finally we reached the coastal towns.  How fun it was to ride through the areas and take in the beauty of the water with all the fishing piers and boats.  We really are water people!

As you can see, Ilwaco is a fishing town.  This is their main port area.  Not only were there many boats and places to launch them, but there were also eateries and shops presenting an easy way to enjoy a lazy afternoon.  The weather was cool and sunny, a fine day!

The town itself is very quaint.  It reminded me of New England towns somehow.  The steep roof lines, all the colors of the rainbow and lots of patterns or gingerbread work.  This house was in pretty good condition.  Others were either under repair or in need of repair.

At first glance, I thought this building was a church.  But when I stopped to take a pic, I realized this was an Inn.  It sat on top of a hill overlooking the village and the water beyond.  The food was reported to be quite good, but we wanted to eat on the water.

This house was in need of a bit of repair but was quite lovely.  The texture of all the siding was especially interesting.  The color of the trim made the house stand out from those surrounding it.

We made our way to the state park to enjoy some of the Lewis and Clark Trail.  Our first stop was an overlook that afforded us our first glimpse of the water.  Ah, water, what a wonderful sight and sound.  The waves crashed on the rocks below a reminder of how dangerous these waters truly are to man and ships alike.  There is no swimming here for the under currents are fierce and the water quite cold too.

Here is one of two lighthouses that are are located here at the mouth of the Columbia River.  In 1853, it became dreadfully clear that a lighthouse was needed.  The site of the lighthouse is called Cape Disappointment and it was the priority site.  The channel is narrow and always dangerous.  Ships would often be forced to wait days or even weeks for the weather to be favorable to “cross the bar.”  Even if the tide and winds were favorable, a ship might begin the journey only to have conditions change rapidly leaving the ship stranded.  In this condition, without wind or current, they could be quickly surrounded by sand and founder.  Even the ship that carried the supplies needed to build the lighthouse fell victim and was lost.  A very dangerous place indeed.

Standing behind the lighthouse looking down, I could see how rough the waters are at Cape Disappointment.  It was awe inspiring but deadly.

Behind in the hills above the lighthouse there is a trail that winds through the thick forest to an overlook.  Along the way are ruins of a number of weather stations and other buildings.  This water tower was nearly engulfed in the thick vegetation.   During WWII and before, this area was an important weather monitoring site.  The remains of a couple of facilities are slowly being claimed by the forest.  Placards told about the innovations that were used to track and transmit weather information.  I must admit that I do not remember ever studying anything about this area in school; it was quite educational.

When we arrived at the overlook, what a breathtaking view of the area.  The wind was strong and the waves stretched out as far as we could see.  We could see folks walking the beaches, but no one was in the water.  Smart.

Fraser Canyon, Last Leg to the Lower 48

As the sun rose on a beautiful day, we were filled with anticipation mixed with sadness.  Once we exit Canada, it feels as if the trip will be over.  Of course, that is not true as we will cover lots of places we have never seen between here and Arizona.  And besides, every day will be an adventure of some sort, right?

Looking at the Guidepost and talking with fellow travelers, it seems that Fraser Canyon is often avoided because the road is winding with lots of inclines to be pulled.  But our philosophy for travel is that the road least taken is the road we like to take.  We actually love the roads where seeing another traveler is rare.  We feel a kind of freedom in the solitude.  It allows us to suddenly stop if we see an animal or drive as slowly as we like and not hold up traffic.  So, we decided to go through Fraser Canyon even though we needed to be in Seattle by mid afternoon.

The route took us through beautiful country unlike what we have experienced in Canada on this trip so far.  No one was exaggerating about the roads.  They snaked their way through the land dropping deep into the canyon floor, climbing upward, going through many tunnels through the mountains and ending in rolling hills as we approached the US/Canadian Border.  We stopped many times to enjoy the scenery and of course take lots of pictures.  There was no real hurry, we would get there when we got there.

Take a look at the Beautiful Fraser Canyon, British Columbia.

The canyon is a study in contrasts.  On the one hand, it is a kind of high plains desert with sandy looking hills covered with sagebrush and other scrubby plants, but then on the other, it was an oasis of cultivated fields and livestock.  It is amazing what irrigation can do to land that is otherwise barren.

Here you can truly see the contrasts.  The lush fields give way to sandy terrain that rises to trees.  In this case, there had been a fire and the trees were blackened sticks giving testimony to the heat that is both death and rebirth.

What goes up, must come down.  The road hugged the canyon sides and turned and switched back again over and over.  Deep in the canyon, a river rages -- as we soon saw as we came down this section.

Once on the canyon floor, we discovered that our road rode the banks of the river on one side while railroad tracks rode the other.  As you can see, the rails cut through sections of the canyon wall much like our road would do further on.  You can see the ventilation shafts that are cut in the wall not only for air but also for light.  Several times as we traveled, we saw trains rushing along on the far side.  It was an interesting sight.

After many miles, the rail tracks crossed over the river and ran parallel to the roadway.  Imagine our surprise when a train suddenly rushed past us.  It gave us an odd feeling to have the iron behemoth so close to us.  As you can see, the road is two-way and the shoulders were narrow -- not much room for error in steering.

As we climbed upward once again, the tracks cross over again and moved up on the opposite wall.  I must say, I was glad.

After several hours of travel, the road climbed into forest land.  This was more like what we have seen in BC in preceding days travel.  There was however, an interesting lack of fall color here.  Once we crossed the border, we found little fall color in the Seattle area either.

The closer we got to the border crossing, the heavier the traffic became.  At one stop, we met a couple who had just driven from where we were going.  They told us that a bad wreck had occurred on the highway and the east bound lanes were gridlock.  Luckily for us, we were going west bound.  As we merged on the highway, wow, what a shock.  After months of little traffic with the exception of the Anchorage area; it was a rude reminder of what we could expect going forward.

Okay, this was a funny sight.  An older couple out for a pleasant ride?  Perhaps.

We finally arrived in Seattle.  My niece, Lisa and her husband, Paul live here as well as my Father’s only living brother and his family.  I was glad to be here and looking forward to spending time with them.  We had reservations at a KOA not far from where Lisa lives.  We expected to get there by mid afternoon easily.

Best laid plans....  We arrived not exactly at rush hour, but tangled in traffic for a Seahawks game and another baseball game that was nearby.  Seems our KOA was located on the route to the Seahawks stadium and was bumper to bumper.  We inched forward at 20 mph and less.  By then, Jim was quite tired as was I and the girls too.  Instead of arriving mid afternoon, we arrived and finished set up at 7:30 p.m.  Good grief!  But no matter, we had a great time with Lisa and Paul.  Paul is an Executive Chef so you know we ate well.  In addition, I visited my Uncle Forest and cousin Liz and her partner, Craig.  It was a good visit.