On the Road Again

There were several days of travel that were not headed to anyplace in particular, just south.  We had decided not to make the journey to Haines since we visited there when we cruised to Alaska several years ago.  Instead, we decided we would visit Steward/Hyder further down the line.  As we backtracked, we passed many things we had seen before but, they looked different with the fall colors.  We traveled around Kluane Lake before and marveled at its size as well as the different wind patterns that impacted portions of the lake.  This time, as we traveled around the lake the winds were calm so our attention was drawn to the shorelines and surrounding hills.  We often had seen signs alerting drivers to watch for mountain goats but we saw few of them.  This time, as we rounded a curve I spotted a group of them close to the roadway.  Jim stopped as quickly as he could and I jumped out to take pictures.  At this time of the year, the females come down from the higher slopes with their young to graze.  Soon enough, they will migrate but for now, I was happy to get a chance to see them.

I won’t bore you to death with commentary but take a ride with us through more of the beautiful Yukon Territory.

Mountain vistas were all around us.  They evoke a feeling of peace and wonder for me.  Grandeur and majesty are two words that apply at every turn.

Beauty abounds.

No trip through this area is without challenges and road work.  The areas where the pavement gave way to gravel and dust were plentiful.  Often, traffic would be stopped for 15 or 20 minutes at a time.  But, who really cared?  With so much beauty all around and not hurried schedule to drive us, we didn’t.

Like an infinity pool, sometimes the roadway seemed to fall into the belly of the mountains.

Another example of death and life, side-by-side.  The wildfires renew the land as is nature’s way, but it is sad for us to see the stark remains of trees that have succumbed to the flames of fires.  Life returns and is renewed in time.

Kluane Lake looked lovely in the brilliant sunlight.  It is massive in size and it takes quite a while to drive around it.

The elusive mountain goats finally showed themselves.  I hurried back taking pictures as I went hoping to get close enough to get a close-up or two.  About that time, a bicyclist came by.  He made so much noise with his peddling, the goats bolted for higher ground.  Oh, well.

As we neared the end of our driving day, the clouds began to drift over the mountains.  It was a great way to end a day.

Beginning of the End

After several years of dreaming and planning to make this trip, it is a bit of a letdown begin the final section of this wonderful trip.  We left Slana and headed for Border City where we would cross the border and begin our trip south through Canada.  Each time we have crossed the border, we brought out our passports and dog paperwork in preparation for questions by the custom officers.  Each time, we have sailed through with little or no questions at all.  This crossing was no different.  We were sad to leave Alaska behind but kept reminding ourselves that the trip was NOT over.  Canada is a beautiful country and the Yukon Territory and British Columbia especially so.

We count ourselves very lucky.  We began the trip at the end of Winter experiencing snow several times.  As we traveled northward, we experienced the beauty of Spring with the rainbow colors of wildflowers and all the shades of green in the trees.  Once we were in Alaska, we experienced Summer.  The Fireweed was ablaze and the deepening shades of green were all around us.  Now, as we begin the southward exit, Fall greets us.  How amazing in just three short months to see the colors of a full year.

We had seen some of the Fall colors before we left Alaska, but as soon as we entered the Yukon the colors intensified.  For part of the trip, we would be retracing territory we saw during our inbound route.  I wondered if it would look different.  Indeed it did.  Take a ride with us as we headed south into the Yukon Territory.

At the bottom of this valley, a stream snaked its way through the changing colors of the trees.  The subtle yellows were but a promise of brilliance to come.

Even here in the Yukon the Fireweed is a common site.  It is such an interesting flower and there is a good bit of local lore surrounding it.  Whenever there is a fire, the Fireweed is the first plant to return and grow.  It begins to bloom early in Spring and continues through the Fall.  Here, you can see one of the final stages before all signs of flowers fall to the ground leaving only stalks of color.  At this stage, locals say Winter is only six weeks away.

This pond looks so still but its reflection speaks volumes.   The mountains in the background are reflected in the water.  They are shrouded in clouds that promise early snow to the higher elevations.  The trees themselves tell of hardships -- fire and “slumping” -- many of them are slowly dying.  The grasses are showing yellow promising that soon cold weather will drive all warmth away.

The road winds it way past trees of all colors and types.  The evergreens remain deep in color while the hardwoods such as Aspens are showing brilliant yellow.

Beauty comes with a price at times.  Here remains evidence of a wildfire that damaged this lovely place.  It is amazing how the fire leaves some trees or building untouched while destroying others.

 This hill was ablaze with color; it took my breathe away.

We passed this home and we had to laugh.  You could say that whoever lives here has it all or at least all the toys.  He has a horse trailer and in the pasture were several lovely steeds.  Out of frame stood an RV ready for travel and exploration.  A plane waits to provide a way to move goods or just travel.  Finally, an ATV that is a work horse but also for play.  I’d say, they have it all.

We came up behind this truck and I noticed this dog riding in the back.  I wondered if he was a hunting dog or just a family pet.  No matter, it reminded us that Charlotte and Savannah could use some exercise.

The girls were really ready to walk a bit.  They have been great traveling companions for the most part.  Of course, they have to be walked several times a day but hey, keeps us from sitting too long.  Jim says he would not take them on another long trip, but I know he would.  They keep us laughing and entertained.

Wrangell-St. Elias National Park and Preserve

For me, one of the big reasons I wanted to visit this magical place was to see the last real wildernesses before human development encroaches on it and ruins it for the future.  Fortunately, the National Park System protects vast tracts of land, Parks and Preserves for all of us to enjoy in the future.  Visiting many of these parks is not a simple process of driving to the entrance and riding around a paved loop or hiking boardwalks or even marked trails.  Wrangell-St. Elias Park and Preserve is such a place.

In terms of size, Wrangell-St. Elias covers 13.2 million acres.  Think about it.  One could fit Switzerland, Yellowstone and Yosemite all comfortably within its borders.  It is truly a wild, untamed place and yet, people have been and continue to live off the land within the borders of the park.  In Alaska, when parks were created the land that was occupied already was not taken over and the people continue to live there following a subsistence way of life as they always have.  Thus, these folks can hunt and gather and fish to sustain their lives as they have for generations.

For me, visiting this place was not a “want too” but a “must”.  We left Valdez and traveled back up the Richardson Highway and on to visit this wonder.  We camped at Hart D Ranch located just outside the beginning of the park.  But, I get ahead of myself.  There are only two roads that will take you into the park.  One of the roads turns off the Richardson Highway and goes into the park and on to a remote town and gold mining area.  This one is the most popular and easiest to visit but I wanted to see the wild side.  So, we headed for the second entrance to the park.  Here, the road in covers only about 40 miles and only the first 15 are paved.  Beyond the 15 mile marker, the road becomes gravel and mud and if you do not have 4-wheel drive, you might not be able to navigate especially when you must ford creeks that during times of rain can run quite high and be dangerous.  Thankfully, we have such a vehicle so we were ready for anything, even the rain if we had too.

Well, as you might guess, it did indeed rain.  As a matter of fact, it had been raining for days before we arrived.  We started our journey into the park by visiting the Ranger Station.  There we talked with two Rangers who were locals to the village of Slana.  They shared with us the road conditions and what we might expect as we traveled into the park.  We also saw pelts of various animals that are part of the ecosystem including a Wolf.  We were both shocked at the size of the animal.  It was huge.  They are certainly not an animal to be careless around.

Even with the rain and the mist that hung in the air and obscured all views of the mountains, it was a magical place.  The colors of the plants were so intense and ponds, creeks and lakes abound.  There was a hush over the land that was interrupted only by the sound of our truck or the cries of birds soaring overhead.  We stopped many times and got out and walked out into the forest to take pictures or merely stand and marvel at the wonder.  I can understand why a person would want to live in such a place.  As I stood beside one of the small streams, I closed my eyes and listened to the sounds around me.  The air was crisp and clean, free of the smells of “civilization”.  As I stood still, I could feel the energy of the land and a kind of peace that wrapped around us.  To call such a place home, what a wonder.  It is harsh, hard living but rewarding to be part of and one with nature.

Take a walk with us as we visited Wrangell-St. Elias National Park and Preserve.

As soon as we entered the park, the land was bursting with all the colors of fall.  This tiny stream wound and twisted through vegetation of many shades of gold and yellow with greens of all shades.  Already, fall has come to this land and the crisp, cool air announced that winter was not far away.  The Fireweed plants had exhausted their blooming cycle leaving behind bald, red stalks where once vibrant flowers bloomed.  As we walked, the earth flexes giving the impression that at any moment one might sink into the arms of the land.

As we walked beside this stream, we hoped that we would see a beaver or a moose or even a bear.  We saw lots of tracks and scat but the elusive animals never showed themselves.

I was fascinated by all the colors.  The mosses were all shades of pale greens cushioning the tiny red plants that grew on top.  The moving stream rippled and gurgled as it passed this explosion of color.

The stream banks seemed to float on the water.  I wondered if there were fish in the streams but we never saw any evidence that there were any.

This moss covered log reminded me of a gator floating in the water of Florida.  It was nothing so sinister, just another lovely bit of color.

This bed of brilliant colored plants made me wish I could paint.  I would create an explosion of color and hang it somewhere to remind me of this place.

Okay, okay enough already.  There were lots of beautiful colors!

This little pond reflected back the trees in the still water.  I have tried to capture several such pictures as they seem so peaceful to me.

As you can see, the land is a mix of tundra and patches of trees interspersed with ponds and creeks.

Of course there are mountains.  Most of the time, they were covered in clouds and mist but at one point the wind picked up and for a few minutes the mountains came into view.  The colors of fall covered their sides.  We were only days away from the opening of Moose hunting season.  Many of the locals were busy creating hides and stands and camps they would use to hunt.  They go well up the sides of the mountain to hunt which was surprising to me since you most often see Moose around the streams and Willow stands.

An example of the road beyond the paved surface.  It was slick and had many potholes.  The locals would speed on their way but we inched along at 35 mph.  Besides, there was too much to see to be in a hurry.

After stopping at a camping site, we topped a hill and rounded a curve and SURPRISE!  There in the middle of the wilderness was a Roadhouse.  It is an example of how locals who already lived on the land have remained on the land.  There are many dirt roads that turn off the main roadway and we assumed that at the end of these were cabins.  But we never imagined that there would be a roadhouse.  By this time, we were a bit tired and thirsty, so we stopped and shared a couple of beers with some of the locals.  It was a rustic, interesting place with crusty characters who were quick to engage us in conversation.  The walls were covered in skins and heads of different animals folks had taken.  In a back room, one man was busy dressing out a Caribou that he had shot that day.  Everything is utilized and they hunt to live, not to just display a head to signify their prowess as a hunter.  We headed back at this point, happy and at peace with the world.

LuLu Belle Tour

Valdez is another one of the towns that has history connecting it to the 1964 earthquake.  Since Valdez is an ice free port, it has always been very important to Alaska.  The earthquake virtually destroyed the entire city.  But the folks in Alaska have a resilience that is amazing.  The town site was rebuilt nearby.  The old town site is now a historic site and a very interesting place to visit.  We saw pictures of the rebuilding process and read how it was accomplished.  Sometimes, a disaster brings good things with the bad.  The new town was laid out with care and included water, electric, gas and telephone connectivity.  In a state where many places still use out houses and carry in water, I’d say it was a real step up.

Valdez is on Prince William Sound; no visit would be complete without visiting Columbia Glacier.  Some of the folks we met traveling along the way told us that the tour on the LuLu Belle was not to be missed.  Ah, but traveling with a young dog makes things complicated especially since she is a chewer.  We discussed the situation and decided that Jim would go fishing on day and I would go on the LuLu Belle -- works for me!

Valdez is a magical place.  Glacier covered mountains surround the port town.  The heavy, white clouds rest on the mountain tops as if they are caressing them.  The day of the tour, the clouds were especially thick and some were colored with gray.  Rain was in the forecast but was not due for another day; I surely hoped they were right.

The LuLu Bell, unlike most of the tour vessels is a lovely yacht.  The tour group was small so there was plenty of room for everyone to move around and take pictures.  The Captain was so entertaining and knowledgeable; he talked the entire cruise and it lasted 8.5 hours!  As soon as we pulled out of our slip, I felt a rush of excitement and hoped we would see many great things.  Indeed we did.  We saw Otters, Puffins, Humpback Whales, Doll Porpoises, Sea Lions and Seals, Eagles and of course, the Columbia Glacier.  The wind was freezing cold, but who cared?  Not me!  I took hundreds of pictures but selected just a few to share.  Ride along with me as we cruise the Prince William Sound.

As we left the harbor, we passed the Saga.  If you happen to watch the Most Dangerous Catch (I do not watch it myself so I may not have the name exactly right), you know that the Saga is the ship they sail on.  You can see it in the forefront of the picture.

One of the most important things to the economy of Alaska is the Pipeline.  This Pipeline begins at Prudhoe Bay and ends at Valdez at an amazing port.  The land was originally a waterfront homestead purchased for $250.  Luckily for the homesteaders, the water there is very deep forming a natural harbor.  They sold it to the gas consortium that build the pipeline and terminus for $8 million.  Not a bad payday I would say.  As a result of the deep harbor, the pipeline can load directly into tankers or into holding tanks at the facility.  Oh and by the way, both the pipeline and the terminus was built without a cent of government money.  Not only that, but the cost was recouped in just three years.  Valdez is really quite unique.  Its major industries are fishing, oil, gas and tourism.  One would think that these could not exist in the same place, but they do indeed.  Right next door to the oil terminus is a gas refinery, and next to that is a Salmon Hatchery.  Everyone involved in all of the industries are very focused on the environment and keeping everything pristine in order to protect all the land and aquatic life.  And they absolutely do!  The Sound’s water is pristine and fish and other sea animals abound.

Shortly after leaving the harbor, we came upon a grouping of Sea Otters taking a nap.  These cute little creatures spend a great deal of time laying on their backs, floating -- even when they are sleeping.  If they are startled, the instantly flip over and dive to safety.  They were so cute, and even though at one point they were endangered, they had rebounded and are plentiful.

All along the route, there were so many things to see from rock formations to wildlife.  Here is one of many spectacular waterfalls that we passed.  It tumbled about 300 feet down over the rocks and finally into the Sound.

Another waterfall tumbling to the Sound.

There were a number of caves along the way.  The Captain told us that Puffins hide in the caves to keep Eagles from stealing their eggs or young chicks.  We actually sailed into one of these caves to see these birds hiding in the crevices.  We were so close to the sides of the cave, I could reach out and touch the damp rocks.  It was scary.

These three Puffins flew out of the cave and landed in the water not far from the cave.  They are curious looking birds.  We had seen them at SeaLife Center in Seward so it was nice to see them in the wild.

Each time we passed a Seal or Sea Lion, the Captain would say we really did not want to stop and see them.  Finally, he stopped and explained that these animals eat the Salmon and thus, the locals do not like them and consider them a nuisance.  Nevertheless, he finally stopped for us to take a closer look and take pictures.

These two fellows were part of a rookery we passed.  Even if they do eat the Salmon, I think they are marvelous.

We were lucky to come across this fishing boat that was putting out a huge net to catch Salmon.  As we sailed up, the smaller boat was just completing the circle with the net.  The two vessels then perform an intricate sort of dance in order to land their catch.

Once the circle is complete, the end of the net is passed to the larger vessel that begins to pull it into the boat.  At the same time, the smaller boat hooks on to the ship and pulls it around and outward so the net will fully encase the fish.  Gradually, they tighten the net until it is pulled into the boat with the catch.

The Seals were so bold.  They would jump over the net into the circle and get the Salmon.  They would catch a fish, come to the surface with it and smash their head side-to-side to kill the fish.  It was violent to watch.  There were a number of the Seals going into and out of the net.  It must have been frustrating to the fishermen to see them getting the valuable catch.  I could really understand why the locals have no love for these greedy creatures.

At the end, the catch is hauled into the boat.  It is really hard work.  These fishermen depend on the three short months of summer to earn enough money to sustain them.

 No tour would be complete without whales.  We saw three Humpback Whales who teased us with their dives.  They would come to the surface and roll through the water and then dive only to reappear a distance away.  Only once did one of the whales show us his tail.  Alas, he was too far away for a good picture.:(  No matter how many times I see these creatures, I am always in awe of them.

At last, the Columbia Glacier came into view.  What can I say, it was a marvel to behold.  It flows from the ice fields far up in the mountains.  As we sat before it, we could hear the ice cracking, sharp loud sounds.  We had been there only a few minutes when there was a loud crack and a big piece of ice calved from the face.  Amazing!  By the time we left, we had seen five in all.  But the first one, it was the biggest.

 Up close, you can see the beautiful, deep blue color of the exposed ice.  This blue color appears over time as the snow is packed and ice is formed.  It is compacted more and more, until all the color spectrums except blue are lost.  It is beautiful to behold.

After a calving event, darker patches of blue are revealed.  This is an example of how it looked.

Yep, that’s me before that beautiful glacier.  I wish Jim had been with me.

A beautiful island formation we saw on the return to Valdez.  A nice ending to a wonderful day.  I hope Jim’s fishing trip is as good as my tour.