Sitka in Pictures

A lovely historic building that dominates the center of Sitka is the Cathedral of St. Michael.  This Russian Orthodox Church was built in 1848 and burned in 1966.  It was rebuilt to its original look except the clock face which was black originally and now is white.

 

Viewed from the rear, you can clearly see the Russian influence.

As we walked about, it was fun posing with interesting sculpture and “friendly” animals.  In case you can’t tell, Jim’s Halibut is a large hanging sculpture.  My Black Bear stood in on a street corner and made me laugh.  Indicative of the history of Sitka, the Prospector stands as a symbol of Alaska’s independent spirit.

A funny example of the inventive spirit of Alaska is the Barnacle.  It is a type of Boot for cars that are parked illegally.  The device is attached to the windshield with very strong suction.  One can use a cell phone to pay the ticket and the Barnacle is released remotely — just like magic.

As the day wore on, Sitka revealed more and more beauty as the mist shifted.  The mountains float on a layer of cotton candy clouds.

Back to Alaska, Sitka Day 1

Good morning from Sitka, AK. It is 5:15 a.m. here and I just woke. Jim is still slumbering so I am trying to be quiet and let him sleep. Our travel day was pretty uneventful but long. We left New Bern on Thursday driving up to Raleigh where we would catch our Alaska Airlines flight to Alaska.  We drove the 2+ hours to Raleigh without incident.  A trip to Costco was on our list of things to do — gotta get toilet paper just in case!  Then we headed to REI to purchase a new pair of binoculars.  Our old pair are quite heavy so we decided it was time to update.  Golly, making a choice was complicated and expensive as well.  Oh heck, if we want to see and enjoy this special trip, gotta bite the bullet.  Our destination for the night was the Hilton Garden Inn.  We were happy to settle in after a quiet bite to eat and a glass of brew.  Early to bed as Friday will be a long, busy day.

We got up at 4 a.m., so a very early start.  We both struggled with grogginess until coffee was served onboard the plane. Crazy how addicted we are to caffeine. Alaska Airlines is a bit different from Delta in how they operate, but their service was wonderful.  The coffee was hot and strong and our food tasty; what more could we ask for?  One hiccup, our connection out of Seattle was delayed about an hour; the plane had a flat tire that had to be changed, not something I would expect but at least something easily repaired.

As we flew into Sitka, we could see fog and mist blanketing the hamlet. The damp grey all around gave it the chilled atmosphere of a spooky movie. Sitka is the fifth largest city in Alaska and boasts a whopping 8,458 population according to the 2020 census. It is located on the western side of Baranof Island and the southern half of the Chichagof Island in the Alexander Archipelago of the Pacific Ocean (part of the Alaska Panhandle). Another of its islands hosts Mt. Edgecumbe, an active volcano although it is not erupting presently.  There have however, been numerous small earth quakes in the past year.  The island enjoys lots and lots of rain something like 238 days out of the year!  That explains the gloomy weather we found when we landed.  The airport is tiny, smaller than New Bern’s for sure. The walls are decorated with all manner of trophy fish, Caribou and Moose heads. There is a case with a big black beer and another with a Grizzly neither of which I would want to encounter face to face!  With a crowd of people waiting to go through security and the crowd arriving, it was lively and loud. There were several groups talking excitedly about the fishing they would be doing and of course drinking too. Since both Halibut and Salmon can be huge, freezers had been cleared in anticipation of lots to be stored. Several groups were on tours and several for cruises.  Lots of excitement. 

With our luggage in tow, we went outside to wait for the hotel shuttle. It was chilly and my sweater felt good but a jacket (packed) might have been better. Rain fell lightly, just enough to keep everything wet. I was thankful our luggage is hard sided. One group loaded all their stuff in the back of a big 3500 pickup and then they piled in like sardines in a can. I can only imagine whatever was inside those soft sided bags would be damp if not out right wet. 

The Sitka Hotel sits across from the Harbor and Crescent Bay. It is a throw back to the 50’s or maybe older. Our driver turned front desk person was very friendly. When he smiles, a gap in his front teeth makes his face have a “homey” look. There is a tiny restaurant — closed for the season and a small nook where breakfast will be served later this morning. Our room sports a queen bed, tv (of course) and a big desk. From the window we can see a food truck in the parking lot offering tacos. The bath is large with a nice tub/shower. Everything is gently used but clean as a whistle. When I sat on the bed, it was soft but when we crawled in to sleep, it is nice and firm and snuggly. I wish I could say we went out and toured or partied but we were bushed. We tried to nap to no avail so finally went and bought three tacos with cokes and sat on the bed and ate. Oh my golly, spicy!   I managed to eat one but Jim ate the balance. By nine, the lights were out and so were we!

Today we will go out and walk about and explore this misty hamlet by the sea with its deep history going all the way back to the time when Russia first settled here. Yep, I said Russia.  Russian explorers settled Old Sitka in 1799.  The governor of Russian America (now that sends shivers down my spine), Alexander Baranov arrived under the auspices of the Russian-American Company, a colonial trading company chartered by Tsar Paul I. In June 1802, Tlingit warriors destroyed the original settlement, killing many of the Russians, with only a few managing to escape. Baranov was forced to pay a large ransom for the safe return of the surviving settlers. He later returned in August 1804 with a large force. His ship bombarded the Tlingit fortification but was not able to cause much damage.  They then launched an attack on the fort and again were pushed back.  Two days later however, the Tlingit flew the white flag of defeat and abandoned the fort to the Russians.  It was not until after Russia lost the Crimean War to Britain, France and the Ottoman Empire in 1856 that Russia, fearing Britain would take Alaska, decided to sell Alaska to the US.  Their loss and our gain for sure.

In addition to history, Sitka boasts fishing, hiking, kayaking and breathtaking scenery.  So, we better get moving and get out there.  Let’s grab our rain gear and let the adventure begin!

Day 3 Santorini

 Another glorious day dawned with all sorts of possibilities for adventure before us.  Our tour for the day would begin at 2:30.  We decided to relax and enjoy our pool rather than rushing out into the crowds.  Each day, the crowds ebbed and flowed in intensity depending on how many cruise ships were in port.  One day there were four of them and the crowds were fierce.  We were told that at the height of July and August, the crowds were twice or three times as bad.  Boy, am I glad we came before that!

We met our driver at the base of the hill and hopped into the van ready for the what would be a wonderful adventure.  We headed to the old port.  Not surprising, it looked like mass confusion with crowds as tight as bees on a hive.  But, we were booked for a private catamaran cruise and sunset dinner so our driver led us away from the crowds and out a different slip area.  First up, remove our shoes.  Then, we walked a plank on to one catamaran, crossed it and stepped from the edge to a second on and finally to a third.  As I reached the third, I was hesitant and fearful I would slip and fall.  I looked up and there was a handsome Greek man, Mike with his hand extended to me.  Handsome, oh yes but with the kindest, deep blue eyes ever.  As he took my hand, he said, “trust me, I won’t let you fall,” and he didn’t!  That is the third handsome Green man I have held hands with, LOL.

Once on board, we met our Captain, Andy.  He gave us a short safety talk and ask us to stay at the back until he navigated us out of the port.  To say we were blown away would be an understatement.  This was no small vessel, it was a full sized catamaran capable of carrying 10-12 passengers and we had it all to ourselves.  In no time, we had cleared the port and were heading out into the beautiful Aegean Sea.  We made our way forward where we stood and enjoyed the wind in our hair and spray on our faces.  I could not help spreading my arms and shouting into the wind, “top of the world”.  Debi stretched out on a mat while Jim and I stood taking in everything we saw.  Watching Debi was fun.  Her inner girl came out and her laughter bubbled uncontrollably.  Such fun to see.

There is something about sailing that is magical.  There is a sense of freedom from everything but the sun and the sea.  We visited the black sand, and the red sand, and the white sand beaches.  We could have stopped to swim but elected to wait until later when we would be at a place where the current was more gentle.  We visited a hot spring where sulfur gives the water a rusty, orange color.  We again elected not to swim over and get into the water as it would stain anything we had on.  We sailed past the tiny light house that sits high up on a cliff.  It reminded me of Manteo’s lighthouse.

From the water, we could see all the colorful layers of the walls of the caldera.  Red, green, black and white the geological history was clear to see.  We sailed past the remnant of the volcano and on to a cove where they tied up to a buoy in the water.  Mike, was busy in the galley making dinner.  The smells made our stomachs growl with hunger.  It was time to swim in the sea.  I decided it was best to just jump in and avoid the slow, agonizing entry into the cold, crisp water.  I hit the water and came up sputtering — cold!  But, it did not last long and soon I was swimming feeling refreshed.  Debi made her way down the ladder making a more agonizing entry but in the water none the less.  Jim decided he would stay on board.  I have to say, I would not have missed the swim for anything.  I came to Greece and swam in the Aegean Sea, yes!

As we exited the sea, Mike wrapped warm towels around our shoulders and invited us to come to the table as dinner was about to be served.  We settled in for a feast!  There was shrimp in a tomato sauce, yellow rice, bbq chicken and bbq sausages, eggplant dip and tzatziki and mussels.  The mussels stole the show.  I ask Mike how he made them and he told me he made a sauce with sautéed onions, honey, mustard, lemon, salt and pepper and oregano.  He added the mussels to the sauce and cooked them till opened.  Oh my gosh, so very good.  Even Debi ate them!  All this was washed down by crisp, white wine.  What a wonderful meal.

Soon it was time to set sail and move along.  The sails were hoisted and off we went.  We viewed the sunset from the back of the boat and sighed, sad to see the day end.  We spent six hours on board but it felt like only a few minutes.  What a special day.

Our Captain deftly, “parallel parked” our vessel.  We left the boat in the same way we boarded, crossing over each on till we reached the dock.  Once again, Mike took my hand and promised not to let me fall.  *Sigh*. Such a nice person and such blue eyes.  Our driver was at the dock to collect us and take us back to the hotel.  There would be no Uno tonight.  Sun, Sea, Good Food — only sleep on our minds tonight.

Day 2 in Santorini

Day two on Santorini dawned, another clear, blue sky above and the beautiful blue sea below.  Our afternoon tour was not due to start until late afternoon so shopping sounded like a good thing to do.  Linen is for sale all over and white is especially alluring.  So, we found an alley that was lined with cool, crisp garments.  It was fun looking and trying a few on.  I bought a fun top and shorts that would be cool to wear.  Jim was very kind to go along with us without complaint.  His reward was a cold beer at one of the taverns overlooking the sea.

Finally the time arrived for our tour.  The guide and driver picked us up at the hotel and we headed out.  First we climbed to the highest point on the island to visit a monastery and church.  The monastery is only for the Monks but we could visit the gardens.  At the entrance is a fountain.  The custom is for one to wash away your sins in the fountain before entering the church.  One of the few springs on the island feeds the fountain so the water was cold and fresh.  The spring gives them the ability to grow the tomatoes.  There was a time when grape tomatoes were grown all over the island.  They are unique in flavor and only grown here.  Now, because of both lack of water and farmers to grow them, families grow them for their own use  only.  The Monks also grow these tomatoes and a few Olive Trees.  Olive oil is made that they can sell to help sustain themselves.  The monastery goes back hundreds of years and once housed over a hundred Monks.  Today, there are only about 40 Monks left.  We enjoyed the gardens and the view as well.  There was a small stand where they sold dried tomatoes and other things they produce.  I bought some of the dried tomatoes that I will put in Greek Olive Oil as soon as I get home.

Our guide took us inside the small church.  Typical of Greek Orthodox churches, it was decorated with beautiful paintings and icons.  He explained that the chairs lining the walls of the main worship area were only for the elderly and pregnant women.  All other worshipers stood through the three hour service, yikes.  I took the opportunity to light a candle and say a prayer for Dan.

One of the highlights of the tour was a visit to the Art Space Santorini, a winery as well as a gallery.  It was not actually on the tour, but our guide told us this was our tour so we could do whatever we liked.  Of course, we liked the idea of a winery.  This winery has been in continuous operation since 1861 and has remained in the same family as well.  The building was made up of three caves and housed not only the wine making but also moonshine too!  The present head of the family decided to add art to the mix as well.  The walls are lined with paintings of all types.  In one room, sculptures of a famous Greek sculpture were on display.  He actually designed a life sized one for the 2004 Olympics.  They were amazing.  The basic structure was actually olive wood with the branches and leaves encased in gold.  There were olives on the trees, some ripe and some not.  I wanted to get one but talked myself out of it.  Now, I regret my decision.  Perhaps once I am home, I will reach out and buy one anyway.

After touring the facility, we enjoyed a tasting.  They only grow white grapes.  Grapes are not grown here like we see them grown in the US or France, etc. in rows, upright and wired.  Here because of the lack of water and the fierce north winds that pound the island, the vines are grown on the ground.  A circular “basket” shaped foundation is used to train the vines to grow.  As the vine fills out and grapes form, they grow inside this circle where they are protected from the wind.  The volcanic soil actually pulls water from the clouds and air around the plants which allows the grapes to flourish.  Pretty amazing.  I am not much of a white wine drinker, but I do like a Vensanto.  We tasted a 2005 Vensanto that was soooo good!  So good in fact, we purchased six bottles to be sent home to NC.  What a treat.

Part of the tour was to see the sunset from Oia (pronounced Ea).  We made our way there but our guide told us that we would not stay there to see the sunset but just to experience the “crowds”.  He would take us to a secret place where we could see it just as well.  Oia was a mob!  So many people rushing to get a good spot well in advance of the sunset — it was crazy.  But, he wanted us to have the experience.  We hopped back into the van and headed out.  We climbed up what amounted to a donkey trail, more track than road.  At the top, a church and a view that was nothing short of spectacular.  There were a few other people there, sitting on the stone wall sharing bottles of wine and champagne.  George, our guide commented that he guessed his secret was out.  No matter, the view was wonderful.  A perfect ending to a good day.  As the sunset gave way too evening, we made our way back to the hotel.  Perhaps a game of Uno to wind down from the afternoon of touring.

Last Stop Santorini

 
The last stop of our enchanting tour of the islands      was Santorini (also known as Thira by the locals).  She rises from the Aegean Sea more beautiful than we could ever have imagined.  Strange red rock formations rise dramatically while overhead blue-domed villages cling precariously to the island’s edge.  Santorini was born out of catastrophe:  a devastating volcanic eruption and tsunami in 1400 BC that wiped out the Minoan civilization.  Behind the obvious beauty, Santorini has a strange, almost dark energy.

We arrived after a final ferry ride from Naxos to Santorini.  As expected, it was chaotic but effective.  The port was even more chaotic than the ferry but our transport driver was there to meet us and collect the luggage for the ride up to the Aressana Spa Hotel.  The road zig zagged upwards jammed with vehicles all headed to the top where the hotels and other accommodations were located.  The road is made of volcanic cobble stones.  They were narrow and crowded with all sorts of cars, vans, motorcycles and people rushing to get to their destinations.  Our van could not take us all the way to the top to our hotel so we were met by a bellman driving a golf cart at the bottom of the hill.  Our luggage was loaded from the van to the cart along with me!  Jim and Debi followed on foot with our guide and met me in the reception area.  The Aressana Spa Hotel was to be our home for the next four days.  Eleanor, a lovely, friendly young lady from the reception staff sat with us in the lobby and did the necessary paperwork for us to check-in.  Afterwards, she took us on a tour of the hotel facilities that ended at our room.  The hotel itself is very elegant with a spa, restaurant, bar and large pool.  Our suite was such a surprise.  Not only was it well appointed, we had a private pool!  Oh my gosh!  Well, I say private, we shared it with three other rooms that were adjacent to ours.  Still, we would not have to go the the crowded pool but rather enjoy the sun and water right in the comfort of our suite.  What a treat!

We immediately went out to explore Fira, the capital of Santorini.  The view from the top was magnificent!  We stood at the edge looking down at the beautiful, blue sea below surrounded by the caldera.  Yes, caldera.  Santorini is actually a big caldera.  From above one cannot appreciate it fully but from the sea, the various layers that show all the eruptions are clearly seen.  Below, there were three cruise ships anchored; a sight we would become accustomed to as the days passed.

Unlike the other islands we had visited, Santorini is crawling with tourists.  Though it is unfathomable now, for much of its modern history, Santorini has been a place of extreme poverty.  Ironically, it is this hardship that created some of the island’s most unique features; the volcanic soil that allows assyrtiko and vinsanto wine varieties to flourish, and the sweetly curved bioclimatic dwellings intended to protect the environment and shield homeowners from the harsh sun.  Tourism slowly trickled starting in the 1980s and today, it is one of the most visited places in the world.  It is the dream destination, especially for honeymooners.  Beautiful beaches and sunsets beacon many to come.    

All this tourism creates problems for the locals and the environment.  Why?  Lack of potable water.  It only rains here once or twice a year and there are no rivers.  A few springs exist in the highest elevations but mainly water comes from desalination of the sea.  This water is good for cleaning and bathing but not for drinking or watering crops.  All drinking water must be brought to the island in plastic bottles; therefore they do not produce olive oil or grow crops like the other islands — but more about that later.  Santorini is a master of elegant tourism.  Anyone who has a house or property wants to cash-in by turning it into either a hotel or a B&B or some other type of private tourist destination.  In years past, the poorest of the people made caves in the sides of the cliffs and hills to create low cost housing.  Today, those very humble homes have been elevated to costly tourist accommodations.  The amount of cost for a hotel room or villa is staggering!  At Oia, some of the rooms cost $5,000 a night!  Too rich for our blood for sure.

But I digress.  We moved through the streets going up and down stairs over cobble stone walkways trying to take it all in.  We were shoulder to shoulder with tourists of all sorts.  The shops ranged from high end to street vendors.  Everything for haute couture to t-shirts was there if you had the price.  We could see immediately that things here were much more expensive than the other islands we visited.  After walking quite a bit, shopping as we went of course, we turned and headed back in the direction of the hotel.  Suddenly, we could hear folks talking loudly and hear laughter as a group of donkeys appeared in the walkway.  We had seen lots of donkeys on t-shirts and even some that advertised Red or Yellow Donkey Beer!  Why donkeys you may ask?  Well, from the base of the caldera where cruise ship patrons disembark to the top are 400 steps.  One must either climb all those steps or, yep, take a donkey to the top!  Oh my gosh.  Back in the day, donkeys were the only mode of transportation except for bicycles.  So you can see the significance of the donkey.  Of course, now donkeys are more of a bit of fun as there are cable cars to bring tourists to the top.

Back at the hotel, we showered and dressed for dinner.  Our destination was Naoussa Restaurant only a short walk from the hotel.  It sits on the edge of the caldera with a great view of the sunset.  Sunsets in Santorini are a must see for any tourist.  The restaurant was small and quaint and bustling with activity.  We settled at our table and perused the menu filled with Greek delicacies.  We had traditional Greek salad with tomatoes, cucumbers, onions, olives, capers and of course Feta cheese, no lettuce.  Funny, we all ended up ordering chicken with lemon sauce on rice for Jim and Debi and pasta for me.  A compliment of pita with olive oil rounded out our table.  There is only one word for the food, delicious!

Soothing music played as we ordered and began eating.  Then suddenly, traditional Greek music started playing and the volume ratcheted up several decibels.  An older gentleman, threw his arms out to his sides, began to dance shouting Opa!  This was followed by the sound of plates crashing to the floor, shattering in to bits and pieces.  It was a bit of a shock but then we remembered that Eleanor had told us we would be there for the breaking of the plates.  If you have seen My Big Fat Greek Wedding, you would remember this custom.  It was a raucous, fun evening filled with food, beer and laughter.  Oh, how we love Greece!

While all this was going on, the sun slowly sank below the horizon.  The sky filled with color and everyone enjoyed a sense of peace as the day gave way to the night.  We left the restaurant sated and happy.  Sleep was not far away but first, a game or two of Uno Flip, a wicked twist to Uno that we had started playing each evening before bed.  Perhaps tonight I might actually win!

Athens

The day dawned sunny and clear, a perfect day to tour Athens.  We met Maria, our guide in the lobby and headed off for an adventure.  Needless to say, there are many sights to see in Athens.  One of the first things we saw was the changing of the guard at the Parliament and tomb of the unknown soldiers of WWII. These are not just ceremonial guards but actual soldiers.  In Greece, all men must serve, just how long I am not sure.  These guards are firstly volunteers.  They must meet certain height requirements and must be pleasing to the eye — mmmm, eye candy!  They wear traditional dress that includes a type of Fez with a long tassel.  Then they wear long, heavy stockings that extend up their thighs. 

Their shoes are red, pointed and topped with a type of black Pom Pom.  The soles of the shoes traditionally have nails in the heels but the more modern ones use taps.  They wear these so they can make sounds as they walk and other scrapes they make.  I cannot begin to do justice describing how they march but to say they make the “goose step” we see Russian, German and Chinese do look like child’s play. 

They move in precise, slow steps that include raising their legs parallel to the ground while moving their arms backwards parallel to the ground.  This position is held for several seconds before they proceed.  They were amazing to watch.  The guard changes every hour because it is brutal to stand completely still in the heat in heavy, wool clothing.  Another guard dressed in camouflage uniform will go to each of the guards and adjust their stance and wipe their faces of perspiration.  Their uniforms have a heavy jacket and a skirt with a type of slip beneath that has 400 pleats representing the 400 years Greece was under Ottoman rule before finally gaining independence. On Sundays, they are dressed in white.  Each soldier will stand three times in a day and serve in the guard for a period of six months.  Really is a sight to see.

Next we went to see the Parthenon.  In route, we passed the National Gardens that we had visited the day before and other ruins that are under restoration and are encased in scaffolding.  Vehicles can only take people to the parking lot below the Parthenon.  From there, we walked up steep sidewalks and climbed lots and lots of steps all packed with tourists. 

All along the way, Maria explained how this structure was built and the various Gods and Goddesses that were worshiped.  It is such an amazing structure built from marble mostly and carved with so many amazing figures.  Naturally, having stood for hundreds of years they are worn and broken and lots of them missing altogether.  Before Greece won their independence the ruler decided that he wanted to take the best of the carvings back to his palace.  Later, many found their way to the British Museum.  Greece has been trying to get them returned but so far no go.

Just below the Parthenon are the ruins of an open air amphitheater.  In ancient times, it was the place where plays were presented.  Only men were allowed to perform so they wore masks to represent the characters they were portraying.  The structure is still being used today for concerts.  It will hold 4,000 people.

After the Parthenon, we went to the museum that has been built to display and inform people about the Parthenon.  They made the decision to remove all the originals and display them in the museum.  Duplicates were created that are on the site; pretty smart I think.  The museum itself sits atop an active archeological site.  There are glass floors scattered all over the museum so you can see what they have uncovered, amazing.  The upper floor of the museum is designed to mimic the actual structure.  Steel columns are placed to represent the actual columns.  The walls are sectioned in large squares the size of the actual art.  Some squares are white plaster instead of the actual art.  They were able to go to Britain and cast the real pieces so they know exactly what they look like.  Some areas were blank as the art has been lost or destroyed and they do not know exactly how they looked.  The east and west side of the building was open and allowed entry.  Above the openings were a series of statues many of which are missing.  Plaster cast pieces are there so we could see how magnificent they were.  All in all, it was amazing and very educational.

Afterwards, we left our guide and headed off to the Platka or old part of the city shopping area.  We enjoyed roaming through the shops and eateries and picking up a few items to take home.  Of course we got a bit displaced but eventually found our way back to the hotel area.  We were all weary so decided an early dinner was in order.  We dined at a different street cafe from the previous night.  The food was good and the atmosphere pleasant.  Another day gone.  Tomorrow we head out for a ferry ride to Milos.  For now, early to bed, early to rise.

Traveling to Greece

Our first day of travel is finally at a close.  It began at 6 a.m. in New Bern where our journey began.  We dropped the dogs at the kennel, drove to Raleigh and boarded a flight to JFK in New York.  I dreaded going through JFK as past experiences were less than pleasant; however, we landed at the same terminal we were to fly out of so it was surprisingly easy.  Our flight on to Athens was delayed because of weather but once in the air, it was smooth sailing all the way.

It is hard to describe how exciting it was to look out the window and see the mountains and seas of Greece below us.  There are small amounts of snow atop some of the peaks but the water below was turquoise and beckoned us to come.  I have to say, moving through the airport was the easiest international arrival I have ever experienced.  We moved through immigration in a flash, collected our luggage and exited — easy, easy.  The airport is relatively new and very efficient.  It was built in 2004 when Greece hosted the Olympics.  We were met by a lovely, soft spoken petite woman who was our escort on to our hotel, a short 45 minute drive away.

Our hotel is located in the city center, easy to walk to most everything.  Needless to say, we were exhausted when we arrived at the hotel.  After checking in and storing our things, we all fell into bed for a much needed two hour nap.  Afterward we forced ourselves to dress and head out to walk about the city and enjoy the sunshine.

Athens is a very social city.  Everywhere you look, couples and families are enjoying the day.  We went to the National Gardens.  Intersperse  among the flowers and trees are lots of little areas with grass or benches where the locals shed their shoes and enjoy sitting on the grass.  We saw young couples with the babies and older couples (our age) holding hands and strolling along.  Some of the trees are ancient.  Their limbs are so large and long, a series of cables were used to hold them aloft.  One in particular looked like something from a Halloween story.  It’s big trunk, long arm like branches and a section with knot holes that looked for the world like a face made me think of a monster.  Too funny.

After strolling about for some time, we decided we should head back to the hotel.  Of course, we had lost track of exactly where we were — not lost mind you, but displaced.  We had a map but of course everything is in Greek which made it challenging.  In the end, we found our way back easy enough.  We stopped at a sidewalk cafe and had an amazing dinner; our first Greek fair.  Jim had a grilled fish and Debi and I shared a yummy salad.  Greeks are known for their breads and also milks products, cheeses in particular.  The bread was chewy with a crisp crust and the accompanying Tzatziki delicious.

The sunset was beautiful.  From our balcony, we watched the pinks, violets and reds fade giving way to the indigo sky that will soon host a multitude of stars.  

In the distance, the Parthenon sits atop the Acropolis bathed in warm, yellow light.  Here in this beautiful city, history rubs elbows with the modern world.  All around are reminders that this place was at the heart of the birth of our civilization.  It promises to be a  wonderful adventure.  But for now, the only thing on my mind is sleep!