It was luxurious to sleep in a bit or as much as the girls would allow. I rolled out and headed to the kitchen to make coffee while Jim prepared to take the girls out for their morning constitution. Outside, a cool breeze was blowing beneath skies that looked foreboding. We really did not expect any rain, but the weather is fickle so who knows. After a light breakfast for all of us, Jim and I loaded up the beast and hit the road. First destination was….you guessed it, Verizon. After the frustration of trying to use it yesterday, I think it is ready for the trash heap but we shall see. The distance between Gering and Scottsbluff is only a few miles so in no time we arrived. The guy at Verizon took one look at our MiFi and said, “my that’s an old one.” Uh-oh, I feel a purchase coming. As I suspected, it was too old to be fixed 😲. Honestly, I could care less! We need to have internet access so we can keep in touch with family and friends. 30 minutes and $90 later, we had a new MiFi that hopefully would keep us in touch. Please let this be the last “challenge” we have to solve on this trip!
If you have never experienced this part of our beautiful country, you are missing an amazing landscape. At first glance, it looks like a lot of rock and dust and sand. Closer inspection reveals a myriad of soft hues of purple, pink, grey and much more. When we lived in AZ, I remember my surprise at how beautiful the desert can be. After a particularly rainy spring, the desert came alive with so many colors. All of the plants and cactus flowered in the colors of the rainbow. Here, the colors come mostly from geological things but the hardy plants also add color. Wild flowers of yellow and purple dot the landscape.
Scott’s Bluff is a towering geologic feature that was important to nineteenth-century pioneers who traveled the Oregon, California and Mormon Trails west in search of a better life for their families. The picture of the map below shows the three different trails and where they started and ended. Learning about the hardships they endured makes me very thankful for what their persistence gave us today.
A number of things drove the great migration of that period. Those on the California trail were heading to the gold rush with dreams of striking it rich and returning home to live in luxury. Those on the Oregon trail were most likely seeking land. The Homestead Act of 1862 in particular gave opportunity for nearly anyone to acquire land including newly arrived immigrants, single women and even former slaves. (Women were allowed to homestead land 58 years before getting the right to vote in federal elections). This process was not easy. In order to claim a 160-acre plot, first they must pay a fee at a land office. Once they lay claim to land, they had to build a home and begin farming at least 10 acres within a five year period, this process was called “proving up the land.” Not an easy task as often they land was in an place where rained little and crops would fail, Many lost their claim.
Those on the Mormon Trail were seeking religious freedom and were heading to the Salt Lake area where they could settle and practice their faith. All of the pioneers faced similar hardships. Firstly, they had to prepare for the journey. Those on the Oregon and California Trails used mostly Oxen to pull the covered wagons we all have seen in Western movies. Oxen were more easily controlled than mules or even horses. Pioneers were told that there would be Indians who were dangerous. This drove many to purchase guns they had no experience using and consequently many shot themselves. As a point of fact, the Indians were not the Red Devils movies portray them to be. For the most part, they were peaceful. That said, as the flood of pioneers crossing their lands and destroying all the grasses and animals, such as buffalo that the Indians needed to survive, violence broke out. Nevertheless, the pioneers had to reduce what they took which was necessary to keep weight low. Many possessions had to be left behind and many were discarded along the way for that reason. The journey took four to six months of arduous traveling sometimes riding in the wagon but most likely walking along side. Golly, I cannot imagine doing that. It was the walking that drove one of the most often traded items between pioneers and the Indians — moccasins. It is said some even started the journey barefooted while others wore out their shoes as they walked. A tough bunch for sure.
The Mormons on the other hand, did not use animals or the typical wagon. They commonly used hand carts! Can you imagine? Pictures show two people behind a T-shaped yoke of sorts push/pulling the carts along. It is said that they even planted corn along the way so that others making the journey could have additional food. Food for everyone was a precious commodity. Choices had to be made as to just what to take for a six month period. Of course, they could shoot game but with so many traveling, that would be challenging plus ammunition would also need to be conserved. Some traded for bows and arrows with the Indians and used them to hunt. I certainly hope they were fast learners!
So, what was the significance of Scott’s Bluff? It was one of many landmarks used to help pioneers and even the Indians navigate. The Oregon Trail followed the North Platte River as much as possible, however once in western Nebraska they had to pass through bluffs that towered over 800 feet above the river. It was narrow going and only horses could pass, not wagons! In 1851, the pass and trail was widened. Hundred of thousands of travelers passed through on all three trails as well as Pony Express riders and even U.S. Army soldiers.
To reach the top of the bluff, we had to drive the 1.6 mile, narrow road to the top. The road passes through three tunnels! Pretty scary stuff but well worth the effort. On top the 360 degree view was grand. We hiked along one of the trails to another overlook and there we met a couple who asked us to take a picture of them. We did and they returned the favor for us. You meet so many nice people traveling (and some not so nice). This couple had just purchased a used motor coach. They annually took a trip this time of the year to celebrate their birthdays; it was the same date. Anyway, the second day on the road the transmission went out! They spent four hours waiting for a tow. Alas, their insurance agent had not added towing to their policy so they were on the hook for over $1200 towing fee. To add insult to injury, the cost of repair would be $6300, holy cow. Of course, there was no warranty to help with the costs. No matter, they were thankful that someone loaned them a car so they could tour around while waiting for repairs. When life gives you lemons, make lemonade! We headed back down the road thankful that our woes have been quite benign by comparison. Next stop, Chimney Rock.
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