Day 3, Sawyer Glacier

Sometime before midnight, I heard the sound of the ships anchor going down.  This sound signaled that we had arrived at the Tracy Arm-Fords Terror Wilderness.  This wilderness can only be accessed by boat or floatplane.  We had been told that we would stop here and anchor until daylight as there would be ice and it would be dangerous to try and navigate after dark.  When I woke, I pulled back the night curtains and gasped at the sight.  We had moved into either the Tracy or the Endicott arm. Steep rock walls with waterfalls towered above us.  In the water, a large piece of iceberg floated past.  The berg had areas of deep blue glacier ice gleaming in the sunlight.  Gosh, what a sight to wake up too!  I rushed to get on clothes so I could go out on our balcony and take pictures.

About 75 percent of his area is considered alpine.  The temperatures are mostly mild with some snow during the winter months.  The remaining 25 percent consists of glaciers and snow fields and the temperature is much colder.  It is managed by the US Forest Service in order to preserve this undeveloped ecosystem for our future generations.  The Forest Service states, “Behold primordial time itself:  a glacier reminding us of an ice age that began over a million years ago.  Across the millennia this condensed ice flowed down from the mountains grinding granites into flour.  Today the glacier retreats as it calves icebergs into the sea and continues its centuries-old unveiling of the dramatic fiord it has sculpted.”

As I stared out at the view, I am touched once again by the beauty all around us.  It is a dynamic scene.  The slow moving often crumbling ice supports all sorts of life.  Harbor seals come here to deliver their pups.  Within minutes, the young pups flop about on icebergs where they are protected from marauding Killer Whales.  Eagles swoop down to grab the afterbirth or even possibly the young pup itself. The mother maneuvers to protect her newborn, pushing it into the water where the awkward baby is transformed into aquatic grace.  The ice leaves behind it fine granite “flour” a byproduct of the constant grinding of the ice and rock.  This flour gives the water its milky green color.  It is full of nutrients that feed the ocean and the land and all living things in and on them.  It is a place of wonder.

We stayed on the balcony for a long time taking pictures and just watching the “living movie” pass us.  Gradually, the Ocean Victory slowed and then stopped.  Over the loud speaker came the announcement that we had stopped before the South Sawyer Glacier.   We raced up to deck 8 and joined our fellow travelers outside to view the sight.  I have seen glaciers before but it was still a thrill.  We were a little over a mile from it.  The varying shades of blue and white ice towered up the mountain side.  This is a tidewater glacier meaning it ends in the water.  They are known to calve frequently.  Calving happens when cracks appear in the ice eventually causing a thunderous boom when the ice falls away in a tremendous splash. It can be quite dangerous if you are too close to the glacier when this happens.  Close to the face of the glacier, we could see tiny black dots or flakes.  These are Harbor Seals with their pups.  Oh how I wish we were close enough to see them clearly.  But even if we were, seals are shy and will seek refuge in the ocean if we approach.  We were told if we see them and they drop below the water, turn and look behind you as they will often pop back up to take at look at you!

Because the ice in front of the glacier was dense and packed, it would not be safe to launch the Zodiacs or kayaks.  So, our Captain had decided to backtrack and go to the other arm and the North Sawyer Glacier.  As we maneuvered a u-turn to head back, we all went inside seeking coffee and breakfast.  After breakfast we had an interesting talk about all things glaciers.  The presenter used “flubber” to demonstrate how the glaciers move down the mountains and the impact they have upon them.  It was funny when he talked about how flubber was made including borax, “whatever that is”.  Too funny!  All us seniors know perfectly well it is a laundry product.  We had a good giggle.

Obviously, 130 passengers could not possibly board boats all at the same time.  So, we were divided into groups with animal names — wolves, seals etc.  We are seals.  After lunch we finally got the call for all seals to assemble to board our Zodiacs.  Jim and I were bundled in multiple layers of clothing topped with rain gear — it rains off an on a lot.  We boarded in groups of 10 with a guide or two and headed off for the glacier.  The wind was icy cold as we zipped along.  We pulled up close to one waterfall to experience the way wind changes the closer you get to the fall.  The water spray pelted our faces like a spa treatment.  Everyone laughed and enjoyed the experience.

We finally arrived at the terminus of the glacier.  A hush fell over everyone as we took in the sight.  This is the first time we have been this close to a glacier and it made us feel like tiny ants.  A seal popped up in the water to take a look at us before dropping away.  The guide talked about the ice and pointed out places where it had carved out lanes in the surrounding rocks.  Some of the ice was covered in fine dirt making it look like rock.  Suddenly, there was a loud crack and a huge piece of ice sloughed off and came crashing down into the water.  It created a large wave that rushed out in our direction.  We were far enough away to be safe but still felt the upheaval of the water beneath us.  What a thrill!

All too soon it was time to return to the Victory.  What a thrill the experience was for us.  Back on board, there were cocktails and dinner and stories to be told.  By the end of dinner, fatigue set in and we headed up to our cabin to relax and sleep.  It had certainly been a day that would live in our memories, cataloged with so many others.  How lucky we are to have such a wonderful experience.

Breathtaking view of wonders to come.

All around are waterfalls, a benefit of lots of rain.

Happy Faces all bundled up from the extreme cold.

All the views of the glacier, one of nature’s most powerful forces.

The darker blue ice represents the newer exposed ice, a product of calving.  The final picture is of the calving.

 

Day 2, KaKe

It seems that we have been on the move ever since arriving onboard.  This is an expedition cruise, not a pleasure cruise. There is a great deal of focus on educational and cultural learning.  We will be having expedition days when we will go out on either kayaks or Zodiacs to get up close and personal with nature, whether it is glaciers or sea life or even animals.  As you can imagine, there is a great deal of focus on safety.  So, we did drills on how to prepare to go out on the Zodiacs.  We met all our expedition staff.  They are mostly young Cal Poly grads, all with  degrees focusing on scientific specialities. They will teach and share with us as we explore in the coming days.  Very exciting for all.

Of course there was a great meal with a variety of entrees and a free flow of spirits and wine.  One of the nice things about this cruise is there is a large list of complimentary drinks, alcoholic and non-alcoholic eliminating the pressure to purchase packages.  The same is true for the  excursions on the non expedition days.  There is a full compliment of excursions that are complimentary and also some premium ones if you choose to go that route.  All of this makes it very easy for passengers.  For sure, there is plenty to eat and drink all day long, guaranteed to add a few pounds if one is not careful.

We met two couples, one from Texas and the other from Oregon.  They are funny and fun to be with and we have become a “group” sharing activities and meals.  It makes the trip more fun in a way but on the other hand, we miss opportunities to meet others.  Most of the people we have met are well educated, well traveled and well monied!  But the common thread of all is a love of life.  But I digress.

Our first port stop was KaKe (pronounced cake).  The community has about 500 residents, mostly native Alaskan. A representative of the community came onboard to welcome us to their community.  She spoke to us in Tlingit first and then translated into English.  It is quite a complicated language with a wide range of sounds — harder than Chinese!  She shared with us how their culture and language was nearly completely lost.  Over the past ten years, there has been a drive to return to the culture and teach the youth the language.  She shared how each family lives a mostly subsistence life style; hunting, fishing and gathering the bounty of the land including under the sea.  It is not an easy life but one that involves everyone in the family from the oldest to the youngest.  She wore a vest that is decorated to represent the tribe she belongs to and the larger tribal connection of her mother.  She also brought a tribal drum and sang two songs for us.  As she sang, you could see the emotion of the song written on her face.  Clearly, they spoke about family and the history of their people.

Afterward we climbed into the Zodiacs and headed ashore.  First off, we went to the community center where a variety of locals were there displaying and demonstrating their various crafts.  One lady created the beautiful vests and other costumes worn when they sang and danced.  Another demonstrated how they gather the materials and prepare them to be woven into baskets and other implements.  Another worked with hides of animals such as the Otter.  She had beautiful hats and other things.  I fell in love with a “bucket” hat that was lined with foe fur, guaranteed to be warm.  I am sure it will keep my head warm when we visit the glaciers on the Zodiacs tomorrow.  Last but not least was an artist who was demonstrating how to make a traditional drum.  There is respect for the culture and customs in everything they do.  Before making a drum, one must get permission from the elders to do so.  The one he was making was from the hide of a deer.  When it is completed, one of the young girls will paint traditional symbols like the Orca or Eagle on the face of the drum.  The drums can be any size from 12 inches to 36 inches depending on the size of the hide.  It was quite interesting.

Next, we walked down to the freshwater stream where the Salmon were running.  We hoped as we walked that we might see a bear fishing.  The run is nearly complete so the likelihood was slim but we had hope.  There is a Salmon processing company on the island and is one of the main job sources.  So Salmon is very important for the economy as well as for subsistence.  As we reached the bridge over the stream, we could hear others saying there, there.  Sure enough,  a young black bear was making its way down to the stream.  At first, he seemed likely to run back into the woods because all the noise from the group was loud.  But finally, he just slipped into the water and swam to the other side where he hauled out and ambled upstream away from all the noise.  We did not get to see him fish but we saw a bear in its natural setting.

We headed back to the Zodiac to return to the boat.  On the dock a fisherman was cleaning and filleting two Halibut.  Each one weighed about 110 pounds.  They would provide some income as well food for the family.  With all the walking we had done, we were ready to relax and have a cocktail.  It had been such a good day and tomorrow promised to be even better.  During the night, we would sail a distance to the Tracy Arm-Fords Terror Wilderness area where there are several glaciers.  There we would anchor until morning as sailing in the dark with so much ice around is dangerous.  It will be an expedition day and we will get up close and personal.

Our Hostess

          

                                                KaKe in the distance

This vest represents the klan of the Raven.  Notice how the beak is shaped.

This vest represents the klan of the Eagle.  Notice the shape of the beak.

My bucket hat with the artist who made it, Faith.

Finished traditional drum.  It is held in the hand and beaten with a mallet.

Black Bear making his way down to the Salmon stream.

  

Bear swimming across the stream.

Bears, Bears, Bears

When you visit Alaska, one of the things high on your list of things to see is bears.  In the Sitka area, bears live in close proximity to humans.  Usually, the interaction between the two is minimal.  During Covid, human interaction decreased to nil.  So much so that when Covid restrictions were lifted, the bears had reclaimed their full territory and clashes began.  Last year, there were more bears killed by automobiles than ever before and many bears had to be put down because they were being a nuisance.  Even so, they are important to the culture and traditions of the Alaskan people.

In Sitka, there are no black bears.  Only brown bears are indigenous.  Grizzlies which are a subspecies of brown bears are not found here but rather are inland. Each year, a number of bear cubs or injured bears find themselves in need of help.  For years, the only answer was to euthanize them as without their mothers, they would starve to death.  Now these helpless animals have a sanctuary, Fortress of the Bears, where they can go to receive care and live out their lives.  As the center gets more bears than they can handle, they are placed in zoos who are seeking to add or replace their populations.  The ultimate goal is for them to receive all the permits etc. to allow them to have a release program.  The cubs especially should be able to be release back into the wild and live a normal bear life.

For now however, they live in a wonderful habitat and are cared for by professionals.  The young cub are placed with one professional who becomes a surrogate mother.  It takes a bit of time for the frightened cub to imprint on their new mom, but once it happens the bond is strong.  That person will feed and train the cubs until they become juveniles or get too big to handle safely.  Then they are placed into one of the enclosures with other bears.  The handler continues to have contact with the cub, but less and less over time.  They train the bears to do simple things like stand up, hold up a paw or open the mouth.  Why?  This allows the handlers to inspect the paws and other body parts for disease or injury without having to handle the bear.

Our visit there was amazing and the bears, majestic.  They had a section dedicated to three black bears that were brought here from outside the area.  Black bears love to climb trees and hills as well as swim, so their area was created to give them that environment.  Brown bears love to swim so their space has a large swimming pond.  They place live Salmon in the waters so the bears can hunt and catch their food.  Of course, they are given other food as well.  These other foods often are laced with vitamins and other supplements to ensure they remain healthy. It was truly amazing to see the beautiful creatures.

At the end of our bear visit, we were finally taken to the Ocean Victory.  There was security to go through, and passport checks and other check-in necessities to complete and finally we were on board.  We were treated to hot soup and other snacks including punch with or without champagne.  We had just enough time to unpack and get somewhat organized before the required safety drill.  We donned our rain gear and grabbed our life jackets and headed up to the appointed gathering place.  I had to laugh at how many of our “old farts” had not listened and followed instructions.  Some had nothing, some only had life jackets and one lady only had on socks but no shoes!  We had to go outside in the pouring rain to stand by our life boats and wait till the all clear was sounded.  Mass confusion.

Back inside, we got warm and dry before heading up for an informational talk about what the next days would have in store for us.  At the end of the talk, we saw our first whales in the distance.  Yippee, whales!  Then at our first dinner we were treated to a beautiful rainbow just as the sun was setting.  Finally we are back in our room, tired but oh so ready to greet the day tomorrow.  I wonder what other adventures we will enjoy.

            

         

Leaving Sitka

It is actually our third day of traveling and it is time to leave Sitka and board the Ocean Victory for our sea adventure. Before leaving, we visited the Salmon Hatchery.  It goes without saying, Salmon is a big industry for Alaska.  It is unfortunate that mankind will fish or hunt animals until they are near extinction.  Salmon suffered much the same fate, however the Alaskan government stepped in and gave them a helping hand.  At the hatchery, they have created an environment that is as close to the natural process of Salmon spawning as possible.

  Salmon are both salt and fresh water fish.  They begin their lives in fresh water, live in salt water through their adult lives and when it is time to spawn, they return to the fresh water where they were born.  So, the hatchery was placed where fresh water flows into the sound that is salt.  They simulated how the Salmon struggle to get up stream by building a series of “steps” that the fish must struggle to swim up, pretty ingenious I’d say.  Each of the different species of Salmon arrive to spawn at a different time in the season.  As they gather just outside the entrance to the “fresh stream”, you can see them rolling and jumping in the water trying to gain access.  They sample the females to see when they are ready to spawn.  You can stroke their bellies and if they are ready, the eggs are free floating inside.  Once the net that blocks the entrance is removed, they swim up the stream and jump up the steps in the same manner they do in the wild.

At the end of the steps, they are scooped from the water and euthanized by smacking them on the head with short, plastic bats.  Sounds inhumane but it is actually quick and painless. Next they take a knife and slit open her belly and the eggs flow out into a five gallon bucket.  The males are compressed to express the sperm into the full bucket and agitated to make sure all the egg get fertilized.  And that is that.  In the wild, the fish die once they spawn so killing them during the process is not unnatural. The dead fish are sold for pet food and other things as they are not good to eat once they begin the spawning process.  The fertilized eggs go to a series of tanks where they hatch and grow until they have reached the stage where they make a change to prepare themselves for salt water.  Then they are released.

It is quite the process.  In the wild, only 5-10% of eggs get fertilized and make it back to the ocean.  At the hatchery, 95-98% of them are fertilized and returned to the ocean.  Thus, the fish have made a remarkable comeback and the fishing industry is thriving. You may ask, isn’t this farming the fish?  No, because they follow the natural process and return them to the ocean where they eat their natural food and are a part of the circle of life.  With farming (which is illegal in Alaska) the fish are kept in captivity from spawn to table.  It was a very interesting visit and I came away with an appreciation of the work that goes into helping nature thrive.

Sitka in Pictures

A lovely historic building that dominates the center of Sitka is the Cathedral of St. Michael.  This Russian Orthodox Church was built in 1848 and burned in 1966.  It was rebuilt to its original look except the clock face which was black originally and now is white.

 

Viewed from the rear, you can clearly see the Russian influence.

As we walked about, it was fun posing with interesting sculpture and “friendly” animals.  In case you can’t tell, Jim’s Halibut is a large hanging sculpture.  My Black Bear stood in on a street corner and made me laugh.  Indicative of the history of Sitka, the Prospector stands as a symbol of Alaska’s independent spirit.

A funny example of the inventive spirit of Alaska is the Barnacle.  It is a type of Boot for cars that are parked illegally.  The device is attached to the windshield with very strong suction.  One can use a cell phone to pay the ticket and the Barnacle is released remotely — just like magic.

As the day wore on, Sitka revealed more and more beauty as the mist shifted.  The mountains float on a layer of cotton candy clouds.

Back to Alaska, Sitka Day 1

Good morning from Sitka, AK. It is 5:15 a.m. here and I just woke. Jim is still slumbering so I am trying to be quiet and let him sleep. Our travel day was pretty uneventful but long. We left New Bern on Thursday driving up to Raleigh where we would catch our Alaska Airlines flight to Alaska.  We drove the 2+ hours to Raleigh without incident.  A trip to Costco was on our list of things to do — gotta get toilet paper just in case!  Then we headed to REI to purchase a new pair of binoculars.  Our old pair are quite heavy so we decided it was time to update.  Golly, making a choice was complicated and expensive as well.  Oh heck, if we want to see and enjoy this special trip, gotta bite the bullet.  Our destination for the night was the Hilton Garden Inn.  We were happy to settle in after a quiet bite to eat and a glass of brew.  Early to bed as Friday will be a long, busy day.

We got up at 4 a.m., so a very early start.  We both struggled with grogginess until coffee was served onboard the plane. Crazy how addicted we are to caffeine. Alaska Airlines is a bit different from Delta in how they operate, but their service was wonderful.  The coffee was hot and strong and our food tasty; what more could we ask for?  One hiccup, our connection out of Seattle was delayed about an hour; the plane had a flat tire that had to be changed, not something I would expect but at least something easily repaired.

As we flew into Sitka, we could see fog and mist blanketing the hamlet. The damp grey all around gave it the chilled atmosphere of a spooky movie. Sitka is the fifth largest city in Alaska and boasts a whopping 8,458 population according to the 2020 census. It is located on the western side of Baranof Island and the southern half of the Chichagof Island in the Alexander Archipelago of the Pacific Ocean (part of the Alaska Panhandle). Another of its islands hosts Mt. Edgecumbe, an active volcano although it is not erupting presently.  There have however, been numerous small earth quakes in the past year.  The island enjoys lots and lots of rain something like 238 days out of the year!  That explains the gloomy weather we found when we landed.  The airport is tiny, smaller than New Bern’s for sure. The walls are decorated with all manner of trophy fish, Caribou and Moose heads. There is a case with a big black beer and another with a Grizzly neither of which I would want to encounter face to face!  With a crowd of people waiting to go through security and the crowd arriving, it was lively and loud. There were several groups talking excitedly about the fishing they would be doing and of course drinking too. Since both Halibut and Salmon can be huge, freezers had been cleared in anticipation of lots to be stored. Several groups were on tours and several for cruises.  Lots of excitement. 

With our luggage in tow, we went outside to wait for the hotel shuttle. It was chilly and my sweater felt good but a jacket (packed) might have been better. Rain fell lightly, just enough to keep everything wet. I was thankful our luggage is hard sided. One group loaded all their stuff in the back of a big 3500 pickup and then they piled in like sardines in a can. I can only imagine whatever was inside those soft sided bags would be damp if not out right wet. 

The Sitka Hotel sits across from the Harbor and Crescent Bay. It is a throw back to the 50’s or maybe older. Our driver turned front desk person was very friendly. When he smiles, a gap in his front teeth makes his face have a “homey” look. There is a tiny restaurant — closed for the season and a small nook where breakfast will be served later this morning. Our room sports a queen bed, tv (of course) and a big desk. From the window we can see a food truck in the parking lot offering tacos. The bath is large with a nice tub/shower. Everything is gently used but clean as a whistle. When I sat on the bed, it was soft but when we crawled in to sleep, it is nice and firm and snuggly. I wish I could say we went out and toured or partied but we were bushed. We tried to nap to no avail so finally went and bought three tacos with cokes and sat on the bed and ate. Oh my golly, spicy!   I managed to eat one but Jim ate the balance. By nine, the lights were out and so were we!

Today we will go out and walk about and explore this misty hamlet by the sea with its deep history going all the way back to the time when Russia first settled here. Yep, I said Russia.  Russian explorers settled Old Sitka in 1799.  The governor of Russian America (now that sends shivers down my spine), Alexander Baranov arrived under the auspices of the Russian-American Company, a colonial trading company chartered by Tsar Paul I. In June 1802, Tlingit warriors destroyed the original settlement, killing many of the Russians, with only a few managing to escape. Baranov was forced to pay a large ransom for the safe return of the surviving settlers. He later returned in August 1804 with a large force. His ship bombarded the Tlingit fortification but was not able to cause much damage.  They then launched an attack on the fort and again were pushed back.  Two days later however, the Tlingit flew the white flag of defeat and abandoned the fort to the Russians.  It was not until after Russia lost the Crimean War to Britain, France and the Ottoman Empire in 1856 that Russia, fearing Britain would take Alaska, decided to sell Alaska to the US.  Their loss and our gain for sure.

In addition to history, Sitka boasts fishing, hiking, kayaking and breathtaking scenery.  So, we better get moving and get out there.  Let’s grab our rain gear and let the adventure begin!

Day 3 Santorini

 Another glorious day dawned with all sorts of possibilities for adventure before us.  Our tour for the day would begin at 2:30.  We decided to relax and enjoy our pool rather than rushing out into the crowds.  Each day, the crowds ebbed and flowed in intensity depending on how many cruise ships were in port.  One day there were four of them and the crowds were fierce.  We were told that at the height of July and August, the crowds were twice or three times as bad.  Boy, am I glad we came before that!

We met our driver at the base of the hill and hopped into the van ready for the what would be a wonderful adventure.  We headed to the old port.  Not surprising, it looked like mass confusion with crowds as tight as bees on a hive.  But, we were booked for a private catamaran cruise and sunset dinner so our driver led us away from the crowds and out a different slip area.  First up, remove our shoes.  Then, we walked a plank on to one catamaran, crossed it and stepped from the edge to a second on and finally to a third.  As I reached the third, I was hesitant and fearful I would slip and fall.  I looked up and there was a handsome Greek man, Mike with his hand extended to me.  Handsome, oh yes but with the kindest, deep blue eyes ever.  As he took my hand, he said, “trust me, I won’t let you fall,” and he didn’t!  That is the third handsome Green man I have held hands with, LOL.

Once on board, we met our Captain, Andy.  He gave us a short safety talk and ask us to stay at the back until he navigated us out of the port.  To say we were blown away would be an understatement.  This was no small vessel, it was a full sized catamaran capable of carrying 10-12 passengers and we had it all to ourselves.  In no time, we had cleared the port and were heading out into the beautiful Aegean Sea.  We made our way forward where we stood and enjoyed the wind in our hair and spray on our faces.  I could not help spreading my arms and shouting into the wind, “top of the world”.  Debi stretched out on a mat while Jim and I stood taking in everything we saw.  Watching Debi was fun.  Her inner girl came out and her laughter bubbled uncontrollably.  Such fun to see.

There is something about sailing that is magical.  There is a sense of freedom from everything but the sun and the sea.  We visited the black sand, and the red sand, and the white sand beaches.  We could have stopped to swim but elected to wait until later when we would be at a place where the current was more gentle.  We visited a hot spring where sulfur gives the water a rusty, orange color.  We again elected not to swim over and get into the water as it would stain anything we had on.  We sailed past the tiny light house that sits high up on a cliff.  It reminded me of Manteo’s lighthouse.

From the water, we could see all the colorful layers of the walls of the caldera.  Red, green, black and white the geological history was clear to see.  We sailed past the remnant of the volcano and on to a cove where they tied up to a buoy in the water.  Mike, was busy in the galley making dinner.  The smells made our stomachs growl with hunger.  It was time to swim in the sea.  I decided it was best to just jump in and avoid the slow, agonizing entry into the cold, crisp water.  I hit the water and came up sputtering — cold!  But, it did not last long and soon I was swimming feeling refreshed.  Debi made her way down the ladder making a more agonizing entry but in the water none the less.  Jim decided he would stay on board.  I have to say, I would not have missed the swim for anything.  I came to Greece and swam in the Aegean Sea, yes!

As we exited the sea, Mike wrapped warm towels around our shoulders and invited us to come to the table as dinner was about to be served.  We settled in for a feast!  There was shrimp in a tomato sauce, yellow rice, bbq chicken and bbq sausages, eggplant dip and tzatziki and mussels.  The mussels stole the show.  I ask Mike how he made them and he told me he made a sauce with sautéed onions, honey, mustard, lemon, salt and pepper and oregano.  He added the mussels to the sauce and cooked them till opened.  Oh my gosh, so very good.  Even Debi ate them!  All this was washed down by crisp, white wine.  What a wonderful meal.

Soon it was time to set sail and move along.  The sails were hoisted and off we went.  We viewed the sunset from the back of the boat and sighed, sad to see the day end.  We spent six hours on board but it felt like only a few minutes.  What a special day.

Our Captain deftly, “parallel parked” our vessel.  We left the boat in the same way we boarded, crossing over each on till we reached the dock.  Once again, Mike took my hand and promised not to let me fall.  *Sigh*. Such a nice person and such blue eyes.  Our driver was at the dock to collect us and take us back to the hotel.  There would be no Uno tonight.  Sun, Sea, Good Food — only sleep on our minds tonight.