Heading Out with the Stouts: Day 3, Sawyer Glacier

Sometime before midnight, I heard the sound of the ships anchor going down. This sound signaled that we had arrived at the Tracy Arm-Fords Terror Wilderness. This wilderness can only be accessed by boat or floatplane. We had been told that we would stop here and anchor until daylight as there would be ice and it would be dangerous to try and navigate after dark. When I woke, I pulled back the night curtains and gasped at the sight. We had moved into either the Tracy or the Endicott arm. Steep rock walls with waterfalls towered above us. In the water, a large piece of iceberg floated past. The berg had areas of deep blue glacier ice gleaming in the sunlight. Gosh, what a sight to wake up too! I rushed to get on clothes so I could go out on our balcony and take pictures.

About 75 percent of his area is considered alpine. The temperatures are mostly mild with some snow during the winter months. The remaining 25 percent consists of glaciers and snow fields and the temperature is much colder. It is managed by the US Forest Service in order to preserve this undeveloped ecosystem for our future generations. The Forest Service states, “Behold primordial time itself: a glacier reminding us of an ice age that began over a million years ago. Across the millennia this condensed ice flowed down from the mountains grinding granites into flour. Today the glacier retreats as it calves icebergs into the sea and continues its centuries-old unveiling of the dramatic fiord it has sculpted.”

As I stared out at the view, I am touched once again by the beauty all around us. It is a dynamic scene. The slow moving often crumbling ice supports all sorts of life. Harbor seals come here to deliver their pups. Within minutes, the young pups flop about on icebergs where they are protected from marauding Killer Whales. Eagles swoop down to grab the afterbirth or even possibly the young pup itself. The mother maneuvers to protect her newborn, pushing it into the water where the awkward baby is transformed into aquatic grace. The ice leaves behind it fine granite “flour” a byproduct of the constant grinding of the ice and rock. This flour gives the water its milky green color. It is full of nutrients that feed the ocean and the land and all living things in and on them. It is a place of wonder.

We stayed on the balcony for a long time taking pictures and just watching the “living movie” pass us. Gradually, the Ocean Victory slowed and then stopped. Over the loud speaker came the announcement that we had stopped before the South Sawyer Glacier. We raced up to deck 8 and joined our fellow travelers outside to view the sight. I have seen glaciers before but it was still a thrill. We were a little over a mile from it. The varying shades of blue and white ice towered up the mountain side. This is a tidewater glacier meaning it ends in the water. They are known to calve frequently. Calving happens when cracks appear in the ice eventually causing a thunderous boom when the ice falls away in a tremendous splash. It can be quite dangerous if you are too close to the glacier when this happens. Close to the face of the glacier, we could see tiny black dots or flakes. These are Harbor Seals with their pups. Oh how I wish we were close enough to see them clearly. But even if we were, seals are shy and will seek refuge in the ocean if we approach. We were told if we see them and they drop below the water, turn and look behind you as they will often pop back up to take at look at you!

Because the ice in front of the glacier was dense and packed, it would not be safe to launch the Zodiacs or kayaks. So, our Captain had decided to backtrack and go to the other arm and the North Sawyer Glacier. As we maneuvered a u-turn to head back, we all went inside seeking coffee and breakfast. After breakfast we had an interesting talk about all things glaciers. The presenter used “flubber” to demonstrate how the glaciers move down the mountains and the impact they have upon them. It was funny when he talked about how flubber was made including borax, “whatever that is”. Too funny! All us seniors know perfectly well it is a laundry product. We had a good giggle.

Obviously, 130 passengers could not possibly board boats all at the same time. So, we were divided into groups with animal names — wolves, seals etc. We are seals. After lunch we finally got the call for all seals to assemble to board our Zodiacs. Jim and I were bundled in multiple layers of clothing topped with rain gear — it rains off an on a lot. We boarded in groups of 10 with a guide or two and headed off for the glacier. The wind was icy cold as we zipped along. We pulled up close to one waterfall to experience the way wind changes the closer you get to the fall. The water spray pelted our faces like a spa treatment. Everyone laughed and enjoyed the experience.

We finally arrived at the terminus of the glacier. A hush fell over everyone as we took in the sight. This is the first time we have been this close to a glacier and it made us feel like tiny ants. A seal popped up in the water to take a look at us before dropping away. The guide talked about the ice and pointed out places where it had carved out lanes in the surrounding rocks. Some of the ice was covered in fine dirt making it look like rock. Suddenly, there was a loud crack and a huge piece of ice sloughed off and came crashing down into the water. It created a large wave that rushed out in our direction. We were far enough away to be safe but still felt the upheaval of the water beneath us. What a thrill!

All too soon it was time to return to the Victory. What a thrill the experience was for us. Back on board, there were cocktails and dinner and stories to be told. By the end of dinner, fatigue set in and we headed up to our cabin to relax and sleep. It had certainly been a day that would live in our memories, cataloged with so many others. How lucky we are to have such a wonderful experience.

Breathtaking view of wonders to come.