After a fitful night’s sleep, I woke to the sound of rain. I pulled back the curtains to reveal fog, mist and a grey, sleepy looking day beginning. Every fiber of my being just wanted to roll over and go back to sleep but I knew we would regret not taking advantage of the day’s activities. I nudged Jim awake and we made preparations to go up for coffee and breakfast. We had to be ready for our Zodiac ride ashore by 9:30 a.m. Groan, yawn, up and at it.
Today we will visit Petersburg. Large cruise vessels cannot come into this shallow. protected harbor. Petersburg is home to Alaska’s largest home-based halibut fleet. So, Ocean Victory passengers are privileged to have the opportunity to enjoy this authentic Alaskan village. This tiny, charming town was incorporated in 1910. The abundant waters and endless supply of ice from the nearby LeConte Glacier brought Norwegian fisherman, Peter Buschmann to this area where he built the regions’s first cannery. Buschmann invited many of his countrymen to join him in establishing this town, hence the name and strong Norwegian culture.The population of Petersburg is 3,100 people. It has remained stable with fishing still the main source of income. The 3,100 people are supplemented with seasonal workers, deckhands and fishermen who come to help with the cannery. Their fishing is not just a single specie affair but rather they adjust and change their methods depending on the time of the year and the type of fish that is in the waters. By that I mean they may seine fish, net fish, long line and even dive for sea cucumber and other things. It is hard work but very profitable. A person could earn 30K in one summer season. Lots of college students come and work. The payoff is they can finish college with no debt! Pretty cool.
Our first stop was at the Sons of Norway Hall to enjoy the culture and cuisine of Alaska’s Little Norway. The hall was built in 1912 as a community hall and serves the community for all sorts of events from marriages to life celebrations. We were treated to some of the sweet treats and tea. Then Leikkaring Dancers performed a selection of Norwegian dances for us. All the dancers were 11 to 13 years of age. The dances were folk dances with intricate steps and twirls. After the dancing, our host told us of the history of the town and then opened the floor for questions.
It was so refreshing to listen to the children answer questions about what they like to do and what they planned to do with their lives. The majority of them want to return after college and live in Petersburg. When asked about what they liked to do, instead of talking about dancing and listening to music or playing video games, they spoke of camping, fishing, ice skating and other outdoor activities. Most of the kids do not even have a cell phone until they reach eighth grade. There was an innocence about them that was refreshing.
We spent the rest of our time exploring this quaint town and shopping about. We stopped for a bowl of hot soup at a tiny little place. It was hot and thick and yummy. The owner was an Asian lady who could not have been more than 4’10” tall. She was quite a ball of fire.
Another place we stopped was a small park of sorts. It told the history of Petersburg and the fishing industry that has kept it alive for all these years. It has not been easy for sure. There has been a rise and fall of companies in the fishing and cannery industry but as one went out business, another took its place. The industry has changed as well. No longer is the Salmon strictly packaged in cans. More modern vacuum packing is use today to not only save on weight and cost but also to extend the shelf life of the contents. It is also sad to note that the founder of Petersburg after all his hard work, ended up penniless and ended his own life. Life can certainly be hard out here, but his hard work lives on in Petersburg and life of those who call it home.
This mural was painted on the side of one of the building.
We returned to the Victory about mid-day ready to relax and enjoy doing absolutely nothing! Tomorrow will be another expedition day. I am sure we will be busy.
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