As has become the routine for us, we woke to rain and breathtaking scenery. We have been in the Tongass National Forest since our trip started, so you can get an idea of just how large the forest actually is. Within the forest are a number of wilderness areas such as Tebenkof Bay Wilderness — 66,812 acres and Kuiu Wilderness — 60,581 acres. These beautiful wilderness areas are accessed only by floatplane, motorboat or paddle boat. They are managed to continue the preservation of undeveloped, enduring ecosystems for future generations. The Ocean Victory is one of only a few vessels that can access the most remote areas of these wilderness lands.
In today’s modern world, few have the opportunity to explore places no one else has visited. Our Captain Jeremy and his expedition team decided to sail through Stephens Passage into a remote bay that is one such place. Few, if any, small expedition vessels have ever visited this place. Deep in the heart of the Kuiu Wilderness of southern Kuiu Island lies Port Maimesbury. This isolated waterway will be our playground for this day. Kayaks and Zodiacs will be launched and who knows what we will encounter. There is a high sense of anticipation and excitement as we think of what we might find in these waters.
Kuiu lies between the islands of Baranof to the west and Kupreanof to the east. It has about 700 square miles of nearly uninhabited terrain. The 2000 census recorded only 10 human residents living in the area. Land critters include black bear, moose and wolves. Marine critters include sea otters, whales and other mammals. There are of course, eagles living here too. We can only hope to spot some of these during our day of exploration.
As our Zodiac departure was not until 1:30 this afternoon, we started our day with one of the science presentations. This one was all about the Tongass National Forest including hands-on science about Algae. Our excitement was not particularly high but hey, we came here to learn and experience so let’s go learn something. The Tongass National Forest is an old growth forest. By that I mean it has been in its natural state for hundreds if not thousands of years. It is also a rain forest. It is this abundance of rain that creates this lush environment rich with all sorts of life. During the last ice age, as the glaciers moved forward, they scraped the land of soil down to the bedrock. As it later receded, it left this barren rock exposed to the elements. Slowly over time, mosses, lichens and other small plants began to grow, die, decay and grow again. The cycles progressed until a thin layer of soil was created which in turn allowed bushes and other plants to grow, die, decay and feed the soil. Trees began to take hold and grow as well. Thus the Tongass was created over time.
Everything grows and supports life here. The trees are actually only growing in about 24 inches of soil, thus the roots do not go down but rather spread out. Trees are thus vulnerable to toppling over in strong winds or as the soil erodes beneath them. The trees fall and begin to decay and feed the soil, but while this happens, mosses and lichens grow and cover the fallen trunk. Everything is covered with life, everything. If we could take a walk out into the forest, we would find a thick mass of all manner of trees and bushes and…well, life. Mmmm, pretty neat. But what about beneath the soil?
Well, beneath the soil, the trees roots spread and grow. Along with them are whole colonies of Algae and other micro organisms. One such algae grows at the tips of the roots of the trees. This algae spreads in communities and scientists have found they are able to communicate between themselves, not like we do of course but in their on way. They benefit the trees. If a tree becomes stressed and needs extra water and nutrients, the algae senses this and is able to send this needed nourishment to the tree. Of my gosh, who would ever think such a thing is possible? But what about what is in the water?
Well, the nutrients that the dead and decaying matter creates also flows in the rain into the water where it feeds the micro organisms living there too. Small fish feed on the smallest organisms and then large fish feed and eventually the mammals like whales feed. The whole circle of life thing keeps singing in my mind as I look around myself. Life springs forth, dies and feed a whole generation of life and the cycles repeats. Sort of like wash your hair, rinse and repeat. Oh dear, I probably told you too much science stuff. See, that talk was educational after all.
Our time to depart arrived and we hurried to get into all our gear and head for the launch area. Almost immediately we encountered Sea Otters. These little clowns are so cute to watch. They float on their backs using their tails to propel themselves forward. They love shell fish and sea urchins especially. They are smart and have developed a number of ways to open the shells. They have been known to bash the shells against the sides of boats to break them open. At an early age, they will find just the perfect rock to use to crack the shells. When not in use, they will store the rock under their arm until needed again. Pretty cool! The mothers carry their babies on their stomach and swim around like a magic carpet for the babies to ride. It makes us laugh to see them.
In the distance, we began to see the now familiar plum of spray made by whale’s exhaling. We turned our zodiacs toward the open ocean at the mouth of the bay ad opened the throttle. Seeing a whale on a film or TV program or from a beach or cliff is one thing, but being on the water with them, well that is awesome! As we approached, we could see more and more “blows” indicating that there was a number of them hunting together. Suddenly, a whale rolled through the water quite near to our boat so we stopped to wait and see where it would go. Alaska protects the whales and one cannot chase or come closer than 100 yards of these behemoths. However, if the whale comes to us, well that is okay and a thrill.
We interacted and watched them for quite some time. It was thrilling to see them roll through the water arching their humped backs and flipping their flukes (tails) as they dove down in search of prey. Here they are hunting for schools of small fish. It had gotten quiet and suddenly, without warning right beside our boat three whales broke the surface with their mouths agape swallowing fish by the hundreds. They crashed back into the water leaving water and foam and our squeals of excitement behind. Oh my gosh, what a thrill! This was one of three such actions we saw while we were on the water. I thought my heart would beat out of my chest!
All too soon it was time to return to Ocean Victory. I can tell you, I will never forget this day for I feel we have danced with the whales!
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